wine – Page 2 – JenandAlsbigItalianadventure

March 19, 2020

Update from Bologna lockdown

Week 2 in lock down

As we begin this second week in Lock down we feel that we are getting the hang of it. Al has been making enough bread to ensure we have some every day and has also made batches of pasta, mayonnaise and sauces to keep us eating in style. This week Al has decided we need a lasagne as there are another 2 weeks of lock down to go (it was announced today that this will be extended). I continue to teach over Skype and to spend the rest of my time reading and trying to write. We are going out every couple of days to get top up fruit and veg or occasional meat. This is as much an exercise in getting some exercise as it is a necessity. However, we think we will try and see if we can get more deliveries online to limit going out further.

Here people patiently wait outside shops, a respectful metre apart, until the next customer comes out so they’re able to take their place inside. It’s hard to imagine this happening in the UK without security guards or other monitors. It seems particularly unusual when Italians are otherwise famous for their inability to queue. However, everyone understands the seriousness of the situation and there is a sense of togetherness in a crisis which maintains a calm acceptance of the present situation and the need to get through it together. This too shall pass.

Rediscovering our love of film

One of the unexpected outcomes of all this was rediscovering our love of film. Back in the early days of our relationship we spent a lot of time watching films, being early adopters of Love Film and clocking up a fair number of films per week. Love Film ate blockbusters and was eaten by Netflix in turn. While we have maintained Netflix and Amazon Prime accounts these have largely been to keep up with TV series. Al’s anti-social hours meant that the Cinema was out of the question and starting a movie at home at 11pm is not that appealing. Even on his days off he rarely had the headspace to sit through a film. Now that we are forced to be in the apartment all the time, we realise that we haven’t really watched films for about 10 years. We are enjoying reading reviews and building up a watch list as well as watching the films. While there are a couple of films that are still daunting us with their length (the Irishman is 3 hours and 40 minutes!) there will never be a better time to watch them than now.

Jennie’s top tips

Someone asked me for some tips in case you guys all get locked down too. I must say that I think it’s important that you do. I genuinely believe this is the only way to minimise this virus. Here are the tips I gave this morning plus one or two more:

Watch films, paint pictures, cook and read books. Do anything you usually don’t have time for.
Try to stick with a schedule but not your old work schedule or an unrealistic home improvement schedule
Don’t put too much pressure on yourself to achieve. This enforced free time can be used for relaxing too.
If there are local businesses you can support by buying direct from them, do it.
If you’ve had gigs or events cancelled try to wait for the reschedule instead of getting a refund. See if the band or venue has merch you can buy or a Patreon or something to keep them afloat.
Don’t be a dick, only buy what you need.
Reach out to your friends. You can’t be in each other’s company but you can still interact. If someone reaches out to you, respond.
Think creatively about how you can continue to do things you enjoy – what about logging on to a streamed gig or comedy performance? Or what about a Skype dinner party – everyone does their own cooking in their own home but with Skype on so you can talk to each other?
Stay positive. This will pass.

Don’t you wish your supermarket was stacked like mine?

The future’s so bright

The world will be different after this experience. Undoubtedly there will be another global economic downturn and many businesses will not survive. However, this has given us an opportunity to see the world, as one of my students put it “through another lens”. We see how quickly those who have jobs that facilitate, can work from home. To see how much we need and depend on the jobs that have recently been referred to by the UK Government as “low skilled”. To see how we can be our best in a crisis, turn misfortune into opportunity, working together to help each other and finding other ways to continue to operate. We can take what we learn from this period into the future and make sure we change it for the better. It is tough right now so those crowdfunding a contingency fund, offering online shopping for goods and services, turning restaurants and pubs into takeaways and any other ways you have thought of to reinvent yourself to adapt and survive I raise a glass to you. If there is anything you can do to support them, you need to get on it.

Keeping positive

Sometimes the human spirit really can surprise you in very positive and uplifting ways. Here in our uniquely Italian experience we have the 6pm music from balconies, which have been shared widely on social media; the hashtag “#iorestoacasa” (I stay at home) being used by Italians to share experiences and homemade posters in windows saying Andrà tutto bene” (Everything will be fine).

March 12, 2020

Bologna in the time of the Corona Virus

Life before lockdown

If I had written this piece last week it would be completely different. I was into the start of the second week of Skype only lessons with the school closed. Al had just been advised that the place where his restaurant is located would be closing for evenings. This was a move as related to falling demand as to public safely as people had stopped going out as much. Corona Virus was largely to the north of us in the mountains and ski resort areas. We had taken advantage of more free time by visiting a few sites we hadn’t got round to like the walk to San Luca (to be told in a future posting), finding groups of school kids excited at the unexpected holidays pretty much everywhere we went. Museums and galleries were closed so there was nothing but views to admire.

The tourist numbers had been quick to drop and the arteries of the quadrilatero (medieval centre) were no longer so clogged as to make them impassable. In fact, one of the busiest streets, Via Pescherie Vecchie was so empty of customers I thought about stopping for lunch just because it might be the only time I could get into a restaurant here. Usually the voices around the centre of town are Italian with the occasional English, American or Chinese accent being quite striking and evidently tourist, so I hadn’t appreciated how many of those voices were Italian tourists and not locals. This became apparent by the reduction of people around. We knew the fall in visitors would have a financial impact so we decided to spend our money in shops that were likely to suffer the most.

Staying informed

We are using a mixture of media to keep abreast of what is going on from the BBC, The Local.it, La Repubblica and The Commune di Bologna (local council) as well as staying up to date with current travel advice on Gov.uk. We have been surprised by the differences in the tone of reporting that we were accessing with a lot of UK news articles on social media having overtones of panic and fear. I was amazed to see an article from Sky News and other British tabloids reporting everyone returning from Italy had to put themselves in self-quarantine. A quick check of gov.uk at the time confirmed what I thought, this advice was only if you were returning from one of the hot spots or if you had any symptoms. While we knew of the international reputation (infamy) of the British Press these events have really highlighted the stark difference between keeping people informed and acting in public interests and trying to sell copy, distract and manipulate the public agenda. Unfortunately, almost without exception the British reporting has fallen into the latter rather than the former.

Even the stories from the region published in the British press seem to be the more hysterical ones. They do not chime with my experience at all. Is this because people like me don’t contact the UK press to provide comment, or because our stories are not exciting enough? I have seen quiet calm and dignity. I have heard stories of panic buying, but I haven’t seen any for myself and the shops here have plenty of toilet roll.

I will admit that, with hindsight, we might not have thought this as serious as we perhaps should. We continued to go to our favourite bars and restaurants, although they were quieter. We continued to meet with friends and discuss the situation. We were not feeling ill and not overly concerned as although we knew the Corona Virus would eventually come here, it was not really here yet. We were even still encouraging people to come here and have a relatively crowd free experience.

What a difference a week makes

Last Thursday we were advised that the schools nationwide would be closed for 10 days, so we knew our schools would not be opening here. We knew people who had been forced to take holidays as local, small businesses began taking efforts to restrict the financial impacts. After that things moved quickly. On Saturday the Red sites or hot spots were extended to include Modena 23 miles to our North and Rimini 70 miles to our south. Although we were not in lock down, we were surrounded by areas that were. On Sunday Al went to work to be told his workplace would be closing until 3^rd April. As he had the night off and it was the anniversary of our arrival in Bologna we decided to go out for dinner. We went to a restaurant on Via Pescherie Vecchie. The centre was not as lively as a typical Sunday night, but it was a little livelier than we were expecting so we felt more hopeful that this time would pass soon enough. On Monday we went to the vegetable shop and bought more food than normal because Al usually eats at work but now, we would both be having our meals at home. We focused on fruit and vegetables to ensure we ate healthily and as a boost to our immune systems. Late on Monday night we got the news that all of Italy would be put into lockdown, there were no such things as red sites anymore.

Via Pescherie Vecchie into the Quadrilatero

The Corona Virus

I have heard many things about the Corona Virus ranging from its no worse than Flu to it’s the end of the world. I just wanted to unpack some of the things from either end and the middle. The flu is not like a cold. If you think it is, then be thankful you have never had the flu. I cannot count the colds of varying severity I’ve had but I know I have had flu twice. It is a horrible illness and I would be happy never to have it again. Flu does kill every year and while the happy majority manage to rest it out at home, I wouldn’t wish it on anyone. I don’t want Corona virus anymore than I want another dose of flu thanks very much.

The odds might well be that like 80% of people (source WHO) I would not have a bad case and that I would be able to recover at home. It’s not really me I’m concerned about. It’s who I might come into contact with, who I might unwittingly infect. It’s the old lady in the street who I might have exchanged pleasantries with, it’s the shop worker who has to work so people can eat. I am more aware than ever before of the people whose lives I touch, even if it is just in passing. You can have this virus for up to two weeks before you develop any symptoms. Can you remember everywhere you have been in the last fortnight? Everyone you spoke to, everything you touched? It’s people who are coming into contact with friends and family with asthma, with diabetes, with compromised immune systems and any other number of health issues who would not be able to manage an infection so nonchalantly that concern me and so we all need to take responsibility.

We owe it to our friends, families and the wider communities in which we live to take this seriously and make sure that we are taking the precautions that we can. We are not able to stop the transmission of the flu (although actually the same measures would help) but there is still time to contain this virus and we should all make every effort to do that so that those in our communities who are vulnerable are not put at risk by our cavalier attitudes because we think we would be able to handle the sickness.

In Europe and the US the weather is starting to get warmer and we can hope the increase in temperatures will help to kill off this virus in the same way the flu is reduced in the summer months. However, we can’t know if that’s the case and the other half of the world is in the opposite situation, getting colder and with their flu season about to start.

Let’s all try not to panic and inflict pain and misery on others; hoarding goods we don’t need; reducing the supplies of gloves, masks, hand sanitizer, medical support and medicines from those that really need them. Let’s stop thinking only of ourselves and what the impact is, or could be, on us. Let’s demonstrate the best of humanity by washing our hands especially after we have been in public places; minimising unnecessary contact with others; minimising travel; checking in on our family, friends and neighbours and only buying what we actually need to get through this period.

It’s not all doom and gloom

So here we are, in day 2 of the Italian lockdown. Food shops are still open and people are still free to move in their towns and streets, going to work etc. They are advised to minimise contact with other people and of course the ubiquitous hand washing advice. We weren’t planning on going anywhere else and we’re in the city so we don’t feel too restricted. Yesterday we went to the butchers and I waited outside while Al ordered because they had a two customers at a time restriction. We went to a large supermarket, where shelves were stacked and no one appeared to be panicking. Shop staff wear masks and gloves.

The school I work for is making plans to extend online lessons. Al is making bread and pasta. It was 19 degrees and sunny today so we had lunch in our garden while reading. I don’t know what will happen next, no one does, but I look forward to giving you an update next week.

March 5, 2020

Carnevale and an Exhibition

Carnevale

Although I was aware of the Venice carnival, I was not aware of its connection to Lent or the fact that not only was this an Italian wide festival, but also quite a lot of the rest of Europe too. For around two weeks, certainly in Italy, there are Carnevale events culminating in a parade of some kind on Shrove Tuesday or Fat Tuesday as it is known in other places e.g. Mardi Gras in Spanish, Martedì Grosso in Italian. I had noticed carnival masks and coloured streamers going up in shops, seen signs for Carnevale as well as event specific delicacies in the Pasticceria windows. However, I was not sure what the celebration was for as it seemed too early for Easter. I asked someone who told me it was the festival before Lent. This information turned our Shrove Tuesday into the limpest of pancakes. WARNING! This is my understanding of Carnevale almost certainly containing wild inaccuracies, baseless assumptions and misunderstandings. Anyway, Carnevale is understood to be from the Italian word for meat Carne and vale which means without. This makes sense as a description for Lent or any other type of fasting. The English word Carnival is derived from this. There is something reassuringly human about that fact that around the world, in all cultures, any period of organised fast start and end with a bit of gluttony.

We had looked online and Bologna was holding its Carnevale dei Bambini (Carnival for children) parade on Sunday at 2.30, which was fortunate as Al had the day off. We decided to go and headed out with a plan to grab a slice of pizza or a piadina to eat while watching the parade. When we arrived, we noticed that there was a lot of confetti and streamers on the ground and we worried that we had somehow missed it. We walked up to where the parade was supposed to be and although there were loads of families with dressed up kids walking around no one seemed to be massing for an event or waiting for one or getting a good spot or any of the usual signs of imminent events happening. We walked the length of the road and at 2.15, having seen no sign of parade or parade watchers, we decided we must have made a mistake about the time and decided to get some lunch.

Lunch in the Mercato Delle erbe – Polpette e Crescentine

It can be difficult to get lunch after 2.00pm because many restaurants close at 3 or don’t open on Sundays. I had a mild cold so I was keen to sit down if we weren’t going to get a parade. We were close to Mercato Delle Erbe (The herb market). This usually has vegetable stalls in the centre with cafes, shops and bars around the edge. Because the market itself and many of the restaurants do not open on Sundays, those that do can extend into the unused space of neighbouring restaurants for the day.

Polpette e Crescentine is one such restaurant that doubles in size on a Sunday. It is often very busy so you might want to think about booking, which you can do through their website on this link. The staff are very friendly and the menu is available in English if you need that kind of thing. The menu also lists their suppliers and the traditional nature of the food. For the uninitiated Polpette (meatballs) and Crescentine (small roughly square bread pieces fried so they puff up and can be stuffed) are local specialities.

We ate here when we were newly arrived in Bologna and they introduced us to the delights of Friggione a local dish of tomato and onions that is usually served at room temperature. I’m not one for side dishes but I will make an exception for this, it is fabulous. More recently we had our first Crescentine here which for some reason we had not eaten before, although they are Bolognese. We had decided to start with a selection of local cooked and cured meats called Affettati misti (mixed slices) and to have the Crescentine with it. A colander of freshly fried Crescentine arrived with our meats and the idea is you break into the puffs and fill them with bits of meat, refolding them into bite sized pieces. They smell and taste similar to a savoury doughnut and were a delicious accompaniment. It was a fantastic discovery and something you probably can’t enjoy outside Bologna.

AGAIN and AGAIN and AGAIN and – MamBO temporary exhibition

After lunch, and disappointed that we had missed the parade, we went to an exhibition we wanted to see. This temporary exhibition is at the Bologna Museum of Modern Art (Mambo) and was part of Bologna Art Week, which I have written about previously. It was curated from the work of multiple international artists, but by far the stand out piece for me was “Bonjour 2015” by Ragnar Kjartansson. I was about to describe it and then I remembered I have the power of photos so here it is.

Yes, those are two real life people in the “set” who perform the same set of actions on a five-minute circuit. It is both beautiful and terrifyingly nihilistic at the same time. You are able to walk around the whole set, so the “performers” can be seen at all times. I have to be honest I admired their commitment to the performance although I was distracted by wondering how many hours they performed this for.

When we left the museum, we were disappointed to see even more confetti and streamers littering the place and it became clear that we had missed the Carnevale festivities for a second time in one day! I thought I might try and catch the Fat Tuesday events before work instead but this was not to be as unfortunately, even the lavish festivities of the Venice Carnevale were cancelled due to the sudden spread into Italy of the Corona Virus. Although Venice itself had no cases, it was deemed wise to avoid mass gatherings of people. The central and regional Italian governments took a robust approach to containment with Emilia Romagna, where Bologna is situated, deciding to close all schools, museums, churches and cinemas for a week as a precaution. This meant that there was no Carnevale parade on Fat Tuesday and MamBO, along with other museums, galleries and cinemas, was closed to the public too although they have made the exhibition available on a streamed service.

February 27, 2020February 27, 2020

Porretta Terme and La Scola

The Hills of Bologna

As part of our ongoing mission to see more of the area surrounding Bologna whenever we can, we found ourselves on a Monday heading out in our ancient Polo to what the Bolognese call “the hills”. Probably because in my mind the hills mean softly undulating landscape, I was not prepared for the majestic sweeps, deep valleys and dramatic shapes of the Bolognese hills. It would be like calling the Peak district, the hills of Sheffield, which is an error with my understanding of the Italian word rather than undue modesty on their part. This area is part of the Apennines which separates Bologna and the north from Pisa and Florence.

Al advises me that it was interesting driving, along the twisty roads, with hairpin bends, steep inclines and unexpected drops with no power steering and it certainly looked it from the passenger seat. My ears popped on one high stretch and we knew that down was the only remaining direction available. There were many beautiful small towns in valleys and on hillsides as we snaked our way through. I don’t have photos of the drive as I was too busy taking it in. You will just have to take my word for it or visit for yourself.

Porretta Terme

We had set our sights on a town called Porretta Terme . As the name suggests Terme is Italian for Thermal spa and these springs have been in use since Roman times. The town is also famous for Winter sports as it is close to a couple of resorts as well as being home to an International Soul Music festival which has been running since 1987. It was a beautiful sunny day with temperatures promising to reach 15 despite it still being February.

We enjoyed ourselves wandering around the streets looking at the architecture. However, it is us, so we had timed our visit with lunch and needed to find something to eat. Monday lunchtime is not an ideal time to visit a town as many shops and businesses close for lunch and many restaurants and cafes don’t open on Mondays. However, there is always somewhere to be found and we were more than happy to stumble on Cipensoio which is the restaurant of the Helvetia Thermal Spa hotel. It looked formal and we thought twice about going in, but we read the menu outside and decided we would go for it. It rated highly on the review sites, but we had really been looking for a sandwich. We often find ourselves in restaurants having sworn we would have a light lunch on the run.

Ci Penso Io is literally translated into English as “I’ll think about it”, but it widely accepted to mean “I’ll handle that” or “I’ll deal with it”, so bear this in mind if you hear it said or say it. Certainly, in this case they could handle our lunch. The food was delicious.

We had only been able to pay for two hours parking (parking requires change which, except for small brassy denominations, seems to elude us), so we had to get back on the road. It’s still early in the year so you start to lose the light at 5pm and we had another stop planned before heading for home. There is a station, Porrettana, which runs to and from Bologna, so a train trip would probably take you through some beautiful countryside on the way. Next time I’m planning on booking in for a spa treatment.

La Scola

We drove back in the direction of Bologna but turned off onto a road that climbed the side of a large hill. This road was in part single lane and we were a little disturbed to see bus stops dotted along, as there was no room for a bus to pass. The tarmac surface did not extend by more than a cars width and to the sides were rain gullys. I didn’t notice any passing places, but I would not have wanted to reverse back to one anyway, the road was steep and twisty. La Scola is listed as a historical monument, but it is a tiny village where all the buildings are from 14^th and 15^th Centuries and were built by master stonemasons. Its location, perched on the side of a hill, means that the beautiful buildings are set in an incredible context against the sky and surrounding hills. As it is tiny there is no parking to speak of, no facilities and I imagine that it could get pretty busy in peak tourist season. You can also get there by train and then bus from Bologna and I recommend it as somewhere to go on the way to or from somewhere else.