How to get your Attestazione di Iscrizione Anagrafica?

A couple of weeks ago Al and I were able to go to the Comune (local council office) and get our Attestazione di Iscrizione Anagrafiche. As far as we know we have now complied with all Brexit requirements to allow us to stay and work. Of course, this was based on the signing of the Withdrawal Agreement in January this year and would, most likely, depend on that being honoured, which we wouldn’t have thought too much about, but…

What is the Attestation Iscrizione Anagrafica?

This is the document that the Italian government have decreed, following the signing of the Withdrawal agreement, that UK citizens who registered for Italian residency (Residenza) before 31^st January 2020 need to obtain from the Ministero del Intero (Ministry of the interior) via your local Comune office before the end of the transition period 31^st December 2020.

Given that this document is for people that were already resident in Italy it is not entirely clear what the purpose of another attestation is, however it is worth noting that you need residency if you stay in Italy longer than 3 months so I suspect that it is both possible and likely that some people will have left the country not intending to return. The Attestation would then be a way of confirming who is here and planning to stay after 31^st December 2020

Who can get it?

According to the UK Government website pages about what you need to do as a UK Resident living in Italy if you obtained Residency before the 31^st January 2020 you can get the new attestation. The Italian government have provided this information for those who already have residency and those who are currently applying. The information about the attestation and copies of the form are included here (N.B these last two links are to documents in Italian).

What was the process?

Making the appointment at the Comune

We went on the website for the Comune in Bologna and selected the one that had managed our residency application. We were able to book an appointment online, however there is not yet an option for Attestation Iscrizione Anagrafica, so we booked the one that sounded the most similar “Rilascio Certificati Anagrafici” (Release of personal certificates) and added in the comments the name of the document we wanted. On the Bologna Comune system you have to book an appointment for each person so we booked two next to each other. The system gives you a booking reference and emails reminders to you.

Attending the appointment with documentation

Previous Comune experience meant that we each have folders containing all our personal information, certificates, contracts, passports etc. from all our dealings with the Comune so we have a better chance of ensuring we have everything needed for the appointment. That said, as we knew that we were requesting something new I fully expected that we would end up being told we needed to make a follow up appointment.

Included in our pack was the circular from the Ministero dell’Interno (linked again here) which included the references to local and EU laws and agreements. We think that this was a crucial document for our success in getting the certificate, so we strongly urge you to take this with you.

Obtaining the marca da bollo

Some documents require an official stamp or bollo. This, it appears, is one of them. The bollo can’t be purchased in the Comune (some admin charges can be done by card in the Comune, but not this one). It needs to be purchased from a Tabaccheria, these usually have a T sign outside them indicating what services they offer, aside from selling tobacco products, and you need to ask for the bollo for the amount that you want. In this case we needed two €16 bollo. You can buy them in advance of the appointment. We have usually had to pay cash for them and this may be a requirement of the bollo system.

Getting the Anagrafica

Once we had the bollo we needed only to pay the tax in cash which was a couple of Euros. He then completed the documents based on our Carte d’Identità (ID Cards) and made the necessary signatures and stamps. We have filed these away in our personal documents file. They may never see the light of day again, but at least we have them.

Extra tips

The process was not quite as bad as we had feared however, we think there are a few key things that you need to do or have with you to make this as easy as possible. Remember this is completely new to Comune staff too and they haven’t necessarily been briefed or trained on what the Italian Government has set out.

Bear in mind that during this pandemic there are less appointments available than usual and you have to pre-book so there might be some time before the next available appointment.
Book appointments for each person that needs one, don’t assume that you can all attend the same appointment because you want the same thing.
Take the circular from the ministry of the interior and additional blank copies of the form, for however many you need. Be prepared to give this to the clerk.
If you can book online write in the comments what the document you want is called. If you have to make appointments over the phone or in person be clear that this is what the appointment is for. The better prepared they are able to be the better it will be for you.
Take all your documents. Take your original application for residency, your certificate (if you paid for one), your codice fiscale, your passport, your ID card, your employment contract, recent payslips, your rental contract. Take everything you can think of. You probably won’t need them, but you never know and if you have had dealings with Italian bureaucracy you probably already have this file.
Be patient. There is a good chance that the person who is dealing with you has not done this before or hasn’t done many. It will take as long as it takes.
A smile will take you a million miles, this is always true, but worth remembering.

As I said at the beginning, this may all be moot if the UK Government fails to honour the Withdrawal Agreement, because then no one knows what will happen. Until we know more all we can do is be as prepared as we can and hope for the best.

Any feedback on the usefulness of this guide would be gratefully received.

September 25, 2020

A Short Break in Verona

As part of our plan to see as much of Italy as possible during Al’s extended days off we booked a break in Verona. It’s just less than an hour by train from Bologna on the intercity train service. We chose an Airbnb in the old town, close to the river with aircon as we had suffered from over a week of poor sleep in Bologna due to the heat. The Covid 19 virus had once again taken its toll on the number of usual visitors and we were able to take advantage of lower accommodation costs although Verona had more tourists than other places we have visited recently. We mostly heard German and French accents with one or two Italians from other regions asking advice about local produce.

Verona has a long history of involvement in the arts, particularly music; from the Roman Amphitheatre which still hosts live performances including at least one Opera Festival, to the old castle that now houses an art museum with plenty in between. It’s also the setting for two Shakespeare plays “Romeo and Juliet” and “Two Gentlemen of Verona”. It is fair to say that the Shakespeare influence is evident in many shop names such as “The merchant of Venice” and tourist sites like “Juliet’s house” ,complete with legendary balcony, “Romeo’s house” and “Juliet’s tomb”. However, it has plenty of other things to recommend it too.

Where is it?

Verona is in the region of Veneto in the north of Italy, west of Venice and close to Lake Garda. Its location means that the air here is fresher than in Bologna and many people stop here on their way to the Italian lakes or to cross the borders into France or Switzerland, which are close by.

What to see?

Verona is one of the main tourist destinations of the region because of its many attractions, its 2,000 year history and important location. Its magnificent architecture and city structure were awarded UNESCO world heritage site status.

The Arena

Built in Roman times one of the few remaining arena in Italy. It is an impressive structure and there are information boards giving the history of the arena, various adjustments and extensions to it and the many uses it has had over the years before being renovated to be used as an Opera and live music venue. Sadly, there were no opera performances scheduled while we were there, but you could look around during the day (except Mondays) which is what we did. If you walk to the top of the stands you get an interesting view over Verona but be warned, in the heat of the day it can be a dizzying experience.

Juliet’s House

This tourist favourite still attracted a lengthy queue every day despite the low overall tourist numbers. You can see the famous balcony from the entrance, but you need to go in to get your selfie and visit Juliet’s house museum. We went when the queue was shortest and only waited 10 minutes or so. The museum boasts historically relevant themes over 9 rooms, but some of them were closed when we visited, although this was not reflected in the price. However, it was not expensive and given that Juliet is a fictional character we went more for the experience than the learning opportunity.

Castelvecchio (The old castle)

The old castle is interesting because it is now an art gallery showing a great collection of art from an extensive period in history. It is organized into time periods which allows you to see how art in general, and religious art in particular, has changed over time. There is also quite an impressive armoury: swords, lances and suits of armour etc. Unfortunately, it doesn’t really retain any of the detail from when it was a home or mention much about the history of the castle itself and who lived there, unless I missed it.

The Adige River

The old part of the city is almost encircled by the river so there are a number of picturesque and important bridges uniting the old city with other areas. It is well worth planning a meander across of few of them to get an alternate view of the city and see some other parts away from the main tourist spots.

Giardino Giusti

The house and gardens of Giardini Giusti are well worth a visit. There are only a couple of rooms in the villa open to the public but they are sumptuously decorated and evocative of an earlier time. The gardens themselves are beautifully laid out with paths all around. Sadly the lion’s head no longer breathes fire, but you can climb up the tower in the cliff face to emerge in the “secret” garden on top, with excellent views of the city. You can get guides from the ticket office for both the garden and the open rooms.

Where to Eat?

Here are our top tips for Verona, all personally sampled and recommended.

Breakfast

Pasticceria Flego

Great range of Brioche in a local institution.

Aperitivo/lunch

Osteria Caffe Monte Baldo

Impressive range of wine as well as cocktails and a great Aperitivo. We came here for a glass of local wine when we first arrived and it was so good we came back for Aperitivo. Staff are patient and friendly.

Osteria del bugiardo

Wine, tagliere and secondi. We had their Valpolicella and it was great.

Antica Bottega del Vino

Traditional restaurant serving local classics such as Risotto con Amarone. It has an extensive wine list including several pages devoted to local the local wine Valpolicella. A uniquely Veronese establishment. I don’t think a visit to Verona can be complete without a stop here.

Maratonda – Craft beer pub

Good range of local and international craft ales.

Terrazza Bar Al Ponte

Aperitivo, cocktails with a view over the river

Dinner

Hosteria Vecchia Fontanina

Traditional food, slow service, large portions. Staff were excellent despite being busy.

Locanda 4 Cuochi

A more modern innovative approach to Italian cooking. We had the tasting menu and it was delightful. The staff were attentive and friendly.

Summary

Our main take away from Verona was a new found appreciation for Valpolicella. We drank a few excellent examples and found people who were happy to give advice on what to look for and how to choose the best one to suit you. We would like to have gained an appreciation of Amarone too, but with prices starting at €60 a bottle, this was out of our budget.

Verona is a very beautiful city with excellent local cuisine. Although there are places which cater to the tourists you can also find delightful local dishes such as the risotto Amarone, duck ragù and horse stew. Its historical strategic importance to multiple empires means there are many unique features and stories to uncover. We didn’t have time to see everything we wanted to so we hope to return soon.

September 6, 2020

Summer in the city

August is when Italians traditionally go on holiday. Ferragosto is officially on the 15^th with people using that national holiday as the start or end point of their break. This year the date fell on the weekend so seemed to start the week before and extend into the week after. It’s been a tough year.

Bologna in August

August in Bologna is particularly hot and humid (especially this year when there were weeks in the mid-30s with temperatures barely dropping at night and little rain). “No one stays here in August” we were told when we first arrived last year. Many people have second homes on the coast or in the mountains to where they wholly or partly decamp to escape the weather. Last year we had long standing plans to be away for most of August so this year was our first experience.

We had noticed that weekends are quiet as soon as the schools break up because everyone heads to the beach, but that’s nothing compared to the exodus in August. We were not sure if this year would be the same as so many businesses were closed for quarantine, however it didn’t seem to make any difference. In fact, I feel it might even have been emptier this year as people were desperate to take advantage of the travel opportunity having been stuck in their homes for so long. The empty streets were like those at the height of lockdown and nearly all our favourite food shops and go to spots closed. This gave us an opportunity to investigate new places, go slightly further afield and try out different suppliers, but the pickings were slim.

With Al working for four days a week it was not exactly holiday time but we made the most of the three days a week he has off with a short break in Verona, a day out at an aqua park and other events still running around the city.

Bologna Station Massacre 1980

The month started with a sombre occasion. The 40^th anniversary of the Bologna station bombing which killed 85 people, injured more than 200 hundred and destroyed a large part of the station. It was one of the many acts of domestic terrorism that occurred during the “years of lead”, when Italy was plagued by violence from groups on the far left and far right of politics. The bombing was one of the last acts of this period, which began in the late 60’s, as people were so shocked by this incident it consolidated public opinion and the determination to bring these actions to an end. As you can imagine it was a big deal here with as much socially distanced commemoration as could be achieved. You can read more detail about these years and get further reading suggestions here.

Banner commemorating 40 years since the Bologna Station Bombing

Under the stars Cinema (Sotto le Stelle del Cinema)

The under the stars cinema programme is undoubtedly a highlight of the Bolognese summer. Usually the cinema is arranged with a large screen and seats set outside in the main square (Piazza Maggiore) which are available on a first come, first served basis or you can sit on the cathedral steps, or bring your own camping chair and add to the end of the rows. People bring along picnics or get takeout from nearby restaurants and bars. Bologna is home to the Cinema Ritrovato where they remaster and restore old films you can enjoy some classics. As it is also supported by the Cineteca, you can watch films in their original language with Italian subtitles, a rare treat as films are usually dubbed in Italian. Last year we watched The Doors with remastered soundtrack introduced by Oliver Stone as well as “Silence of the lambs” which was especially atmospheric with the sound bouncing around the piazza buildings.

This year, with Coronavirus, we thought the event was done for, but we shouldn’t have worried, although it had been altered, it was still on. Due to covid restrictions there were only 1000 seats and you needed to book tickets online so the necessary social distancing could be arranged. Sadly, the restrictions included prohibiting eating and you need to wear your mask at all times, so no food was allowed. The piazza was also closed for anyone without a booking so we have had to take some detours to avoid it.

As in previous years, you could book into one of the piazza restaurants and bars that overlook the screen and watch the movie while eating a meal or having a drink as these venues are already socially distanced. As we had a guest visiting, we decided to book a table at Signor Vino for the first night of her stay, from where we could watch “The Great Escape”. Our meal was excellent and the staff magnificent. The obligatory introduction came to an end and we were all glued to the screen as the film started. Sadly, about 20 minutes in we noticed that people in the piazza had started to get up from their seats and head over to where we were in the restaurant. We quickly identified that the heavens had opened. We felt relatively secure at our table as it was under a portico, but the wind picked up and soon we were getting drenched too. The screen began showing a message that the film would not continue. Despite our, and the staffs, valiant efforts to pull the table further under the portico, it was hopeless and we abandoned the table for one inside. So, at least now I know what happens if it rains on a cinema night.

Casa di Custode, Villa Ghigi

Villa Ghigi is a formerly private estate gifted to the people of Bologna via a foundation. The park at Villa Ghigi was a place of salvation for us as the first of the lockdown restrictions were lifted, which you can read about here. The villa itself is an imposing structure and still very beautiful and evocative, but I am sorry to say that it is in a poor state of repair. It is currently in the running for restoration funding due to a great initiative by FAI (Italian Environmental Fund) and you can vote for the Villa here on their site.

Next to the villa is a small building called the Casa di Custode. Usually this is completely closed but in the summer it forms the base of operations for a bar. The counter is outside, with the menu very clearly stating it sells beer and wine only. Trestle tables are set up with a random assortment of stools and chairs. Lights are strung between the casa and the villa. Covid restrictions meant less tables than previously and at busy times these were only available if pre-booked. It’s a beautiful location to stop and admire the greenery as well as being a welcome reward for walking up the steep slopes to get there.

The Acquapark

As the heat continued to build we took refuge at the Acquapark in the hills near Bologna. The air was, thankfully, fresher here and we enjoyed spending our time between the pools. We had originally planned a beach day, but we realised that’s where all the people who were usually in Bologna had gone and so all the beaches would be busy and expensive. The park made a great substitute, we got to paddle and relax, whilst maintaining social distancing and with everything we needed on hand. We thought the day tickets were good value and the food and drink concessions had something for everyone and were plastic free.

End of Summer

As wonderful as the summer was I have to say that when the heavens opened on final weekend of August I couldn’t have been happier. It felt like it was cleaning away the dust, dirt, grit and sweat of the previous weeks. We have had great times and been to beautiful places, we have some new favourites and new experiences. We even managed a return visit to Dozza (you can read about our previous visit here) as well as a few days in Venice and Verona, but the summer is ending and we need to get on. It was also bittersweet because we have had to say goodbye to Alice, who has decided to move on to a new opportunity in a new location. She is one of Al’s colleagues and has been very welcoming to us, making sure we were included in many events and occasions. She has been a big part of our getting to know the city, we will miss her and we wish her the best of luck for the future.

Alice in Borgo Mameli for her leaving drinks

As the summer draws to a close I am enjoying the cooler nights and the feeling that things are starting again. Everything has reopened and feels fresh. At the risk of poking the hubris bear, whose 2020 game has been a strong one so far, I am feeling hopeful for the future in a way I wasn’t before. Let’s see how that goes.

July 29, 2020

Rapallo

Where is it?

Rapallo is a beautiful coastal town in Liguria, Italy, where the mountains sweep down into the Mediterranean. It’s excellently located as a gateway for both Portofino and the 5 towns that make up Cinque Terre. It has excellent transport links as it’s just off the main toll road and has frequent rail and ferry services*, with specific tourist ferries running during the season. Due to the mountainous terrain it’s often easier, and certainly more scenic, to travel by boat rather than by car. In fact, many of the more popular towns are best appreciated by approaching from the sea, as they would have been historically.

*Unfortunately, at the time of our visit, Rapallo harbour was being dredged so the ferry to San Fruttuoso was not running from there and the ferry to Cinque Terre was not yet running again. This wasn’t too much of a problem as we could get everywhere we needed to by train, or train and reasonable walk, but it would have been the cherry on the cake.

A close up of a map

Description automatically generated — Rapallo to La Spezia (Genoa is to the left just off picture)

From Rapallo you can walk to Santa Margherita, but it’s only one stop on the train if you prefer. There is a fabulous waterside boardwalk that runs from Santa Margherita Ligure along the coast and then you can take the “Walk of kisses” to Portofino. Some nearby towns can only be accessed by ferry, so make sure you check the return times. The ferry that usually runs from Rapallo goes to Portofino. As the ferry to Cinque Terre was not available we took the train, which was easy and relatively inexpensive.

What’s there?

A palm lined seafront, a reminder that the French Riviera is just up the road, extends along the length of the town, from one side of the castle (now exhibition space), though Piazza IV Novembre where Christopher Columbus points towards his home town, Genoa, and on to the main harbour. Like many Ligurian towns it has some excellent examples of Trompe L’oeil, which is a French painting technique but for the reasons outlined in the link has been made a Ligurian feature. Fake windows and ornate faux plaster details are common.

Rapallo remains more of a normal working town than a tourist destination and so has all the amenities that you would expect from a residential town. It has excellent shops combining the usual high street stores more inland and independent stores in the narrower lanes by the seafront. Restaurants and bars are scattered throughout. You can buy excellent local produce at the many grocers, bakeries, pasta shops, fish shops, market stalls and butchers. This made it a great choice for us because we had the option of buying things to cook at the apartment or going to a restaurant. The produce market is open most days (not Sunday) in Piazza Venezia, but there is a general market on Thursdays which runs along the sea front road (which is closed for this purpose).

The cable car will take you up to a monastery in the mountains. It takes about 30 minutes to make the ascent and the views over the sea and surrounding countryside are stunning. It’s reasonable priced and runs frequently. We recommend getting the cable car up and then using the pilgrim path (donkey track) to walk back down.

Where to stay?

Our online search returned great accommodation in good locations, in fact given the global pandemic we were spoilt for choice and much lower than usual rates. We wanted the option to cook for ourselves, so we opted for self-catering.

The Air B&B we booked was centrally located in a residential block set back from a main esplanade to the castle and the sea. It had a lift, aircon, Wi-Fi and views of the mountain behind Rapallo. As we were the top floor apartment we had a balcony/terrace which included a BBQ so we could admire the setting sun and the mountain view while we ate. Parking was in the private road, if you could get a spot, which we did. Joe, our host, was very friendly and helpful.

Where to eat and drink?

The food and drink options are so good in Rapallo we put together a short selection of our favourite places.

Breakfast (or lunch) and coffee

We only have one entry here because we went here on the first day and were not tempted to deviate.

Tossini

This pasticceria is a local institution. The brioche (pastries) are amongst the best I have ever eaten. The coffee is excellent and the staff are friendly. If its breakfast you are after they have a range of brioche displayed under the glass counter, there are also other sweet treats. If it’s lunchtime they serve focaccia col formaggi as well as salads, panini and pizzette. You order and pay at the counter. It has seating inside and out. We liked the seating in the back porch overlooking the piazza.

Aperitivo

As many of you know we are big fans of the Aperitivo and Rapallo has many great options. In this area a second round of drinks is likely to result in a second round of nibbles being delivered to your table. They don’t always ask if you want more when you order your drink, but they won’t be offended if you turn food away. In one location we had so much Aperitivo we scrapped our plans to go out for dinner and just had some snacks back at the apartment. As we usually cocktail with our Aperitivo, I have used the cost of an average cocktail as an indicator of price.

Bar Enoteca Il Castello

Cost: €6-8 for a cocktail from a fairly comprehensive list.

Features: As this is an Enoteca they have an impressive wine list with some wines available in the half bottle. Tables inside and out both provide sea views. It’s on a little parade of bars overlooking the castle and is a great place to watch the sun set over the bay. Staff are friendly and accommodating.

Special knowledge: Ask inside if they have a “tavolo sotto” and if there are any available you will get shown downstairs, under the main bar, and to a table on the waterfront rocks. You can’t book and people will wait outside the bar for a table to become available.

Taverna Gallo Nero

Cost: €6-8 for a cocktail from a good list, with special seasonal cocktails.

Features: Tables in one of the narrow lanes close to the seafront, also more inside if you prefer. Very friendly staff who made the effort to chat with us. Great beer selection including craft ales from around the world and a good wine list.

Bloody Mary Enoteca

Cost: €6-8 for a cocktail from possibly the longest list I have ever seen.

Features: As they are an enoteca they have a good wine list and they sell craft ales including their own. The bar itself is quite small so it has mainly outside tables along a narrow lane towards the back of the sea front area.

Sky bar Royal 8

Cost: €14-20 for a cocktail (be aware there is a €15 pp minimum spend) from a sophisticated list. Probably the best cocktails we had but by far the most expensive.

Features: It’s a hotel sky bar with views over the Marina and the rest of Rapallo harbour. The best quality nibbles we had but this was reflected in the price. You will probably need to book, which is done through the hotel reception. We were gratified that the clientele were not quite as snobbish as we have seen in similar UK establishments. All in all, a fabulously decadent treat.

Dining

Along the seafront there are the more touristy restaurants who sell everything from Pizza to regional dishes such as trofie and pesto, or seafood pasta. There is also a Chinese restaurant and a Japanese all you can eat buffet which has a robot waiter! In the lanes immediately behind the front there are more restaurants and bars with shops mingled in. As this is Italy all restaurants sell the regional cuisine. In more touristy places you will find Spaghetti Bolognese on the menu (see previous post). Our favourites were:

O Bansin

Great for quality Ligurian comfort food. Al and I shared the focaccia with cheese and the marinated anchovies for antipasti. Trofie and pesto for primi and we shared a braised rabbit dish. We were too full for pudding, but I am sure it would have been delightful. We ate in the back of the restaurant in what looks like a converted boat shed. The staff are friendly and knowledgeable.

Hosteria Vecchia

Combining traditional Ligurian cuisine with innovation. This is the most fine dining restaurant in our selection and was an excellent choice for my birthday meal. They serve regional dishes with a high quality finish and taste and at the same time are not afraid to add a twist. We had the ravioli con salsa noci (ravioli in a walnut sauce) to share after our antipasti. Al’s beef tartare was prepared tableside which added a theatrical touch. My main course was less glamourous but no less delicious. We drank a bottle of local wine recommended by the sommelier, which was fresh and lovely. The staff here were professional, accommodating and friendly.

Ristorante Vesuvio

This is the only sea front restaurant in our selection, with views across the bay and one of the least touristic menus. The daily menu does not include pizzas so you may need to ask for their pizza list, which is comprehensive. However, their seafood pastas are great examples of the regional cuisine. The staff are friendly and it’s in a great location for you to get a feel for the town and find your bearings. The prices are reasonable given the location, but there is a cover charge.

The end of the holiday

We enjoyed our time in Rapallo immensely. There was something different to do everyday, but at the same time, there were places we returned to again and again. We were very lucky with the weather and that we were able to take advantage of the absence of tourists. We were welcomed everywhere we went and found all the people we met to be warm and friendly. We definitely plan to visit again as there are some things we simply didn’t have enough time to do.

July 20, 2020

Liguria

As I mentioned in my last post, we decided to take a holiday in the Ligurian region of Italy. Each Italian region has its own unique cuisine, features and identity so I put together this short, and incomplete, guide. I will post more about our specific trip and the locations we visited over the next couple of weeks, but I wanted to provide an overview of this spectacular area.

General Information

Liguria is one of Italy’s smallest region. It’s situated in the north-west of the country and borders with France. A region of mountains (Apennines and Alps) running into the sea, forming beautiful coves and where towns cling to the cliffs and valleys. It’s home to some of the most beautiful beaches in Italy, the picturesque towns of the Cinque Terre (5 lands) as well as the jet set’s favourite Portofino[1]. Genoa is the capital city of Liguria and is Italy’s biggest port so it combines a heavy current industry with the ancient harbour and the largest medieval centre in Europe[2].

Activities

There seem to be activities for everyone. There are the Apennines and the Alps for keen walkers offering all levels of mountain trekking and several parks and reserves form part of the landscape. There are fantastic beaches to explore, many of which are blue flag, with some offering water sports equipment hire. You can view an array of yachts and working boats or hire a boat for the day from the many harbours. There are beautiful, colourful old towns and villages stuffed full of churches, galleries, museums and historic architecture as well as Etruscan archaeology. If you want the hustle and bustle of the city you can go to Genoa, with is ancient harbour and famous aquarium as well as the medieval centre and an area of merchant palazzi (now mostly banks) which form a UNESCO world heritage site.

Poets and artists

The romantic landscape of Liguria, with its cloud covered mountains and sparkling sea, colourful towns and small harbours have long since attracted a literary crowd. Byron famously swam from Porto Venere to Lerici. Percy Shelley drowned here while on holiday with Mary Shelley, indeed, this area is now called “The Bay of Poets”. D.H. Lawrence recuperated from tuberculosis in Spotorno and was allegedly inspired to write “Lady Chatterley’s lover” while staying there. Even Ernest Hemingway was a regular feature and had a noted spot in a Genoese bar, and that’s just some of the writers! If I am feeling mean spirited I would add that this is in part due to its long associations with the well to do and the fact that many literary and artistic figures were either themselves wealthy or given patronage by those that were. However, the landscape here is unbelievably beautiful so it’s no surprise so many people should have been, and continue to be, inspired by it. The quality of the light reminded us of St Ives, the artistic enclave in the UK, which seems to conspire to make everything incredibly picturesque.

Weather

The sea and the mountains combine to provide slightly cooler temperatures than we were used to and less humidity but it felt much hotter in the sun. The fresher conditions were just what we were looking for as Bologna is always humid but becomes increasingly so as the summer progresses. Another benefit of the weather conditions seemed to be a reduction in the number of mosquitos.

How to get there and get around

By Air

There is an airport at Genoa, which is probably the most convenient if you are travelling from overseas.

By Train

Trains run frequently throughout the region, including intercity trains to/from Milan etc. Regional trains are cheap and cheerful, intercity and Freccia trains are air conditioned and luxurious but cost more.

Tickets and seats

You need to buy a ticket before you travel and, where indicated, you must validate your ticket at the machine (usually at the entrance to the platform) before you board. You can book a seat on the intercity and Freccia trains, but not on the cheaper regional ones. During the corona virus restrictions you were required to provide some additional information when you booked your ticket and there were clear instructions on the platform and on the trains themselves about what you needed to do, where you could sit, where to get on and off the train carriage etc.

By Ferry

You can usually travel around the Cinque Terre and between coastal villages by ferry, particularly during the high season. Tickets can be bought in a ticket booth at the ferry departure point. Sadly during our visit Rapallo harbour was under maintenance and the Cinque Terre ferries were not running, however we were able to get the ferry from Santa Margherita Ligure to Portofino and San Fruttuoso.

By Car

The main roads are toll roads and run through many tunnels and across viaducts. You are issued a ticket when you join and are required to insert the ticket and pay at the pay point when you leave. It can all be done by credit or bank card. It cost us €18 for the whole stretch from Bologna to Rapallo. The more minor roads are twisting and winding up and down mountains and valleys, which can be more physically demanding than you may be used to, they’re also sometimes single track and you can’t help notice that there are bus stop signs either side of the road here so you need to be vigilant for passing points. These roads take longer to navigate than their length might suggest as it’s not often possible to drive them at, or close to, the speed limit, however they also offer some of the best views.

Parking

Each town or city in Italy is likely to have a ZTL (Traffic limited zone), you need to keep to the main through roads and look for parking outside the ZTL if you want to avoid a fine. Fines are done by traffic camera not wardens so you are not likely to find out if you have received a fine immediately. However, we have always found ZTL maps and parking locations easy to find on the internet so as long as you check ahead you should be fine free.

What to eat

Ligurian cuisine truly reflects its location with dishes from both the sea and the mountains. On many menus you will find:

Antipasti (appetiser)

Focaccia col formaggio/pizza (focaccia with cheese/cheese and tomato) – very thin focaccia with cheese/cheese and tomato inside, toasted and served in squares. This is gooey and delicious, but portions can be large so be careful!

Acciughe marinato (marinated anchovies) – butterflied fresh anchovies in a light marinade. Served with a lemon wedge. A breaded and fried version is also common.

Primi (pasta)

Spaghetti allo scoglio (spaghetti with seafood) – pretty much what it says it is. Served in a tomato sauce. The seafood is served whole with a bowl for shells. Fingers are licked clean with a moist lemon towelette to finish up.

Spaghetti agli scampetti (spaghetti with local scampi) – served in a tomato sauce shell on. Again, comes with a bowl for shells and a towelette.

Trofie al pesto (local pasta shape coated in pesto) – a local kind of pasta that resembles a square of pasta rolled up on the diagonal, the pasta is coated in pesto (N.B. some place may make the pesto authentically with the necessary ingredients in a pestle and mortar but this would be expensive so on a menu you are likely to be getting a pesto with less premium ingredients and made in a blender. However as discussed, fresh pesto is a beautiful thing). This dish is also often served with potatoes and beans (patate e fagiolini).

Ravioli in salsa di noci (stuffed pasta with nut sauce) – meat or fish stuffed pasta with a sauce of crushed walnuts.

Secondi (main)

Coniglio (Rabbit) – Often quartered and braised with vegetables.

Fresh local fish – depending on the season and what is available that day. Restaurants may also indicate on the menu where they are using frozen fish.

General eating

Genoese Pesto

I cannot over emphasise what a difference in taste you get from pesto made using artisanal processes. Some of you may have made pesto before and if so, you will have found that freshly made pesto tastes infinitely, well fresher, than anything you can buy in a jar, that’s true here as well. However, the version available in Liguria is infinitely better still. It is all made in a pestle and mortar. When you eat it you can taste each component part as well as the whole and it is incredibly fresh and light. As you can imagine this is a labour intensive process and so a tub of the genuine stuff is expensive but well worth it. As always with Italian food, it’s the quality of the products that make the dish, simple but irresistible. Here is a link to the “official” pesto recipe.

Olives

Famous for both the olives themselves and their oil. Oil here is often bottled and consumed young so you can find bottling dates and best before dates on the labels. They are considered among the best olives and olive oil in Italy.

Basil

Specifically, the DOP basil (grown in a specific area in a certified way). They use this in their famous pesto and many other regional dishes and drinks. Basil granita is not an unusual sight in Gelateria (Ice cream shops).

What to drink?

Cocktails

Many bars offer cocktails as part of their Aperitivo. The lists vary in length and complexity. They may also feature local twists such as basil or local spirits such as Nocino (a nut liqueur)

White wine

Pigato – An old local variety[3] that seems to be closely related to Vermentino, but the grapes have duskier skins and the finished wine has a drier taste. It’s thought its freshness comes from the grapes growing close to the sea.

Cinque Terre – a wine from the local Bosco and Albarola grape varieties[4]. Its fresh and light tasting.

Vermentino- Although a dry white wine, this is the sweetest and most aromatic of the local wines.

Red Wine

Dolceacqua – A red wine produced from the indigenous Rossese grape. A fresh red with scent of the sea, wild berries and Mediterranean flowers[5]

Summary

As you can see, there is plenty to do and eat in this region and it’s well worth the visit. We will certainly be returning to experience some the things we weren’t able to squeeze in on this occasion as well as revisit the places that we really enjoyed. More information on where to stay and what to do can be found here.

[1] ‘Liguria’ (Italian Tourism Official Website, 2020) <http://www.italia.it/en/discover-italy/liguria.html> accessed 3 July 2020

[2] ‘Liguria’ (En.wikipedia.org, 2020) <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liguria> accessed 3 July 2020

[3] ‘Pigato, Vendita E Prezzi Pigato | Callmewine’ (Callmewine.com, 2020) <https://www.callmewine.com/pigato-V216.htm> accessed 19 July 2020.

[4] ‘Cinque Terre Bianco | Callmewine’ (Callmewine.com, 2020) <https://www.callmewine.com/cinque-terre-bianco-V79.htm> accessed 19 July 2020.

[5] ‘Rossese Di Dolceacqua | Callmewine’ (Callmewine.com, 2020) <https://www.callmewine.com/rossese-V247.htm> accessed 19 July 2020.

June 17, 2020

A Day out in Modena

This week we decided to use the recent lifting of regional movement restrictions and to take advantage of Al’s days off by going to Modena.

A very short description of Modena

Modena is a city in the region Emilia Romagna. There has been a settlement here since 187BC and the Duomo, which was built 1000 years ago, is included in the UNESCO world heritage site that can be explored in Grande Piazza. There is a long standing rivalry between Bologna and Modena as they used to be competing city states, typical of neighbouring cities and towns the world over. There was a series of battles known as the war of the Bucket (1325) when the opposing factions fought each other. The Modenese fighters took a bucket from Bologna as a trophy and it (or one meant to replicate it) is on display in the Torre della Ghirlandia to this day.

Modena is the home of Balsamic vinegar, but not the stuff you can buy from the supermarket in the UK, the product here is produced from grape must, thick and sweet and takes at least 12 years to ferment, using a centuries old process. You only need to use a tiny amount, let down with olive oil which is good news as even a small bottle will set you back, but it should last for years. Modena and the area immediately surrounding it has a large number of products of either DOP (products of a protected origin) or IGP (products with a protected region) meaning that you cannot buy the same product anywhere else. The city’s proximity to Bologna means that many of the regional dishes are the same, but there are some interesting variations to look out for.

Modena is also home to Lambrusco (sparkling red wine), Ferrari and Maserati cars as well as the world famous tenor Luciano Pavarotti.

How to get to Modena

Modena is about 38 km from Bologna and easily accessible by rail or car. On the train from Bologna it can take between 17 and 29 minutes depending on whether you get the slower regional train or the faster Freccia Rossa and the tickets are priced to reflect this. On this occasion we drove and chose to go via the slower, toll free roads, which are more picturesque. Like many Italian cities, the centre of Modena is covered by a ZTL (traffic limitation zone) where cars are either not permitted to enter at all or are extremely restricted. The fines for infringement of the ZTL are high and its possible to get more than one in a day so be careful if you are driving about. A brief amount of research meant that I was able to get a map of the Modena ZTL and find a free car park outside it. Modena is a compact city so parking outside the centre is not a problem. Our free car park was next to the stadium, from where it is a 10 minute pleasant walk to the Grande Piazza.

What to eat?

The Italian version of the tourist information site of Modena lists an ideal Modenese menu; starting with salumi (sliced cured meats), followed by tortelloni stuffed with pork, prosciutto and Parmigiano Reggiano (parmesan cheese). They also recommend Zampone or Cotechino, which are local types of cured sausage, but they are not for the faint hearted. They are true to the concept of nose to tail eating in that they contain some of the parts of the animal that we don’t usually, knowingly, consume. For my tastes they are too greasy and too gristly. Al, on the other hand, really likes them. After the sausages they recommend slices of Parmigiano Reggiano with a small quantity of local balsamic vinegar and all washed down with a bottle of the local Lambrusco. You may have heard of Lambrusco before and even have an opinion about it but I urge you to put that aside and try it in Modena. It’s a delicious sparkling ruby red wine and my friend Jess is particularly partial to a glass or two when she visits. The meal is finished with some local cherries or other fruits or something called Zuppa Inglese, a kind of firm custard, served with Amaretti biscuits.

As we were only having lunch we were not looking for a full set of courses and had a recommendation from a friend. Ristretto is found in a narrow alley a short distance from the Duomo. Although the weather forecast was bleak and the skies were grey, we opted to sit outside on one of the tables along the alley. The menu was short but it was still hard to choose. In the end we had passatelli with prosciutto crudo in a parmesan cream sauce. Passatelli is a pasta made from breadcrumbs and parmesan cheese. We accompanied it with a glass of dry white wine. The meal was delicious and they are noted for their wine selection so I highly recommend eating there.

The unassuming entrance to Osteria Francescana

I couldn’t possibly talk about food without referencing Modena’s 3 Michelin starred restaurant, the Osteria Francescana, owned by Massimo Bottura. It has been listed in the top 5 at the World’s Best Restaurants since 2010. Al is a huge fan of Massimo Bottura, his approach to cooking and his focus on minimising waste and increasing sustainability and although I would like to say that we have eaten there, as yet, we have not been so fortunate. However, we did slope past to have a look at the outside. Eating here is a once in a lifetime event and you need to book a long time in advance i.e. they are currently booking for tables in January 2021. The 12 course tasting menu costs €290 with the wine pairing €190 on top. We were fortunate enough to eat in Thomas Keller’s French Laundry pop up in Harrods a couple of years ago so I’m sure that it would be worth it, but it’s just a little out of reach at the moment.

Fast Cars and Opera Stars

Ferrari’s are not made in Modena any more, the works having transferred operations to nearby Maranello, however there is the Museum of Enzo Ferrari, in the original factory, where they have a nice selection of cars for you to drool over and, for those who know about these things, a hall of engines. The trident of Maserati was modelled on the trident on the statue of Neptune in Bologna as Maseratis were made in Bologna for a while. It is interesting to think that the origins of motor racing and the Grand Prix were on the roads around here.

You can also visit the House of Luciano Pavarotti at the gates of the city. He lived in this house for the last 9 years of his life. He had a passion for horses and bred them here as well as holding an annual horse contest. Unfortunately, we did not have time to visit on this occasion.

I would highly recommend Modena for a weekend break or a day trip or even as a base to explore the wider region. It is very beautiful and an easy city to navigate on foot. There are plenty of cafes and bars for you to stop at when you need a break and interesting museums and churches to investigate.