August is when Italians traditionally go on holiday. Ferragosto is officially on the 15^th with people using that national holiday as the start or end point of their break. This year the date fell on the weekend so seemed to start the week before and extend into the week after. It’s been a tough year.

Bologna in August

August in Bologna is particularly hot and humid (especially this year when there were weeks in the mid-30s with temperatures barely dropping at night and little rain). “No one stays here in August” we were told when we first arrived last year. Many people have second homes on the coast or in the mountains to where they wholly or partly decamp to escape the weather. Last year we had long standing plans to be away for most of August so this year was our first experience.

We had noticed that weekends are quiet as soon as the schools break up because everyone heads to the beach, but that’s nothing compared to the exodus in August. We were not sure if this year would be the same as so many businesses were closed for quarantine, however it didn’t seem to make any difference. In fact, I feel it might even have been emptier this year as people were desperate to take advantage of the travel opportunity having been stuck in their homes for so long. The empty streets were like those at the height of lockdown and nearly all our favourite food shops and go to spots closed. This gave us an opportunity to investigate new places, go slightly further afield and try out different suppliers, but the pickings were slim.

With Al working for four days a week it was not exactly holiday time but we made the most of the three days a week he has off with a short break in Verona, a day out at an aqua park and other events still running around the city.

Bologna Station Massacre 1980

The month started with a sombre occasion. The 40^th anniversary of the Bologna station bombing which killed 85 people, injured more than 200 hundred and destroyed a large part of the station. It was one of the many acts of domestic terrorism that occurred during the “years of lead”, when Italy was plagued by violence from groups on the far left and far right of politics. The bombing was one of the last acts of this period, which began in the late 60’s, as people were so shocked by this incident it consolidated public opinion and the determination to bring these actions to an end. As you can imagine it was a big deal here with as much socially distanced commemoration as could be achieved. You can read more detail about these years and get further reading suggestions here.

Banner commemorating 40 years since the Bologna Station Bombing

Under the stars Cinema (Sotto le Stelle del Cinema)

The under the stars cinema programme is undoubtedly a highlight of the Bolognese summer. Usually the cinema is arranged with a large screen and seats set outside in the main square (Piazza Maggiore) which are available on a first come, first served basis or you can sit on the cathedral steps, or bring your own camping chair and add to the end of the rows. People bring along picnics or get takeout from nearby restaurants and bars. Bologna is home to the Cinema Ritrovato where they remaster and restore old films you can enjoy some classics. As it is also supported by the Cineteca, you can watch films in their original language with Italian subtitles, a rare treat as films are usually dubbed in Italian. Last year we watched The Doors with remastered soundtrack introduced by Oliver Stone as well as “Silence of the lambs” which was especially atmospheric with the sound bouncing around the piazza buildings.

This year, with Coronavirus, we thought the event was done for, but we shouldn’t have worried, although it had been altered, it was still on. Due to covid restrictions there were only 1000 seats and you needed to book tickets online so the necessary social distancing could be arranged. Sadly, the restrictions included prohibiting eating and you need to wear your mask at all times, so no food was allowed. The piazza was also closed for anyone without a booking so we have had to take some detours to avoid it.

As in previous years, you could book into one of the piazza restaurants and bars that overlook the screen and watch the movie while eating a meal or having a drink as these venues are already socially distanced. As we had a guest visiting, we decided to book a table at Signor Vino for the first night of her stay, from where we could watch “The Great Escape”. Our meal was excellent and the staff magnificent. The obligatory introduction came to an end and we were all glued to the screen as the film started. Sadly, about 20 minutes in we noticed that people in the piazza had started to get up from their seats and head over to where we were in the restaurant. We quickly identified that the heavens had opened. We felt relatively secure at our table as it was under a portico, but the wind picked up and soon we were getting drenched too. The screen began showing a message that the film would not continue. Despite our, and the staffs, valiant efforts to pull the table further under the portico, it was hopeless and we abandoned the table for one inside. So, at least now I know what happens if it rains on a cinema night.

Casa di Custode, Villa Ghigi

Villa Ghigi is a formerly private estate gifted to the people of Bologna via a foundation. The park at Villa Ghigi was a place of salvation for us as the first of the lockdown restrictions were lifted, which you can read about here. The villa itself is an imposing structure and still very beautiful and evocative, but I am sorry to say that it is in a poor state of repair. It is currently in the running for restoration funding due to a great initiative by FAI (Italian Environmental Fund) and you can vote for the Villa here on their site.

Next to the villa is a small building called the Casa di Custode. Usually this is completely closed but in the summer it forms the base of operations for a bar. The counter is outside, with the menu very clearly stating it sells beer and wine only. Trestle tables are set up with a random assortment of stools and chairs. Lights are strung between the casa and the villa. Covid restrictions meant less tables than previously and at busy times these were only available if pre-booked. It’s a beautiful location to stop and admire the greenery as well as being a welcome reward for walking up the steep slopes to get there.

The Acquapark

As the heat continued to build we took refuge at the Acquapark in the hills near Bologna. The air was, thankfully, fresher here and we enjoyed spending our time between the pools. We had originally planned a beach day, but we realised that’s where all the people who were usually in Bologna had gone and so all the beaches would be busy and expensive. The park made a great substitute, we got to paddle and relax, whilst maintaining social distancing and with everything we needed on hand. We thought the day tickets were good value and the food and drink concessions had something for everyone and were plastic free.

End of Summer

As wonderful as the summer was I have to say that when the heavens opened on final weekend of August I couldn’t have been happier. It felt like it was cleaning away the dust, dirt, grit and sweat of the previous weeks. We have had great times and been to beautiful places, we have some new favourites and new experiences. We even managed a return visit to Dozza (you can read about our previous visit here) as well as a few days in Venice and Verona, but the summer is ending and we need to get on. It was also bittersweet because we have had to say goodbye to Alice, who has decided to move on to a new opportunity in a new location. She is one of Al’s colleagues and has been very welcoming to us, making sure we were included in many events and occasions. She has been a big part of our getting to know the city, we will miss her and we wish her the best of luck for the future.

Alice in Borgo Mameli for her leaving drinks

As the summer draws to a close I am enjoying the cooler nights and the feeling that things are starting again. Everything has reopened and feels fresh. At the risk of poking the hubris bear, whose 2020 game has been a strong one so far, I am feeling hopeful for the future in a way I wasn’t before. Let’s see how that goes.

Pronounced Dotsa

In the hills of Emilia Romagna

Last Friday was one of the rarest of all days. A day where both Al and I had the whole day off. We decided to celebrate by getting into the car and travelling out to one of the nearby towns. Since we moved here we have explored the city but not the nearby countryside. Often when we asked people where was good to go, they would reply simply “colli” which means the hills and refers to those that surround the dip in which Bologna sits. We had received recommendations for the various highlights, panoramas and not to be missed food spots but we had not managed to get to any of them.

For our unexpected trip Al chose a village between here and Imola so that we would not spend too long travelling, but we would have a chance to enjoy the scenic countryside, which was not disappointing. One of the things that stands out for me is how open the land here is. I was aware that hedgerows were a feature of the English countryside but I had not really thought about what farmland without hedgerows looked like. There are vast fields wearing the colours of their various harvests and states of cultivation, like patchwork, with houses and farm buildings dotted about, stretching all the way to the horizon with only the occasional tree or patch of woodland. Here you might find any combination of agricultural activity side by side such as a small vineyard next to a freshly ploughed cereal field with only an irrigation ditch to separate them.

We have been lucky with the weather with temperatures reaching into the twenties in the day but dropping to a more comfortable sleeping temperature in the evenings, largely fine sunny days, with about one day of rain a fortnight. We have been told these high temperatures are not typical for this time of year and are above the seasonal average. On this particular day it was relatively warm (20c) but it was cloudy and rain was forecast.

What we knew about Dozza

All that we knew about Dozza what was on the Taste Bologna site recommending the visit, so we knew that it was a small medieval town at the top of a hill, with a castle called Rocca Sforzesca and an art biennale (festival every two years), which had been running since the 60’s, when artists are invited to contribute. We knew that the castle had a winery in the cellar that was run by the local wine promotion board. We also knew that there would be good food.

What we found when we got there

The biennale is called “Muro Dipinto” which translates as “Painted Wall” but this does not adequately describe what you see in this incredible place. We arrived just before the castle and used the local free car park, walking to the crest of the hill on which it sits. The ancient village consists of a few streets behind the castle and as you make your way through you see that every wall has art on it, full scale pieces that take up the entire side or frontage of buildings or a series of smaller pieces all completed over the decades, thus creating an open air art gallery.

Each piece has a small plaque detailing when the piece was created and by who. As you can imagine, different paint and application techniques age differently left open to the ravages of time and weather so there is a combination of murals from the 60’s that look as though they could have been painted in the September biennale just gone and others over more recent years that have almost completely faded away. A full list of all the artworks is available from their official site (see link above).

We have read that this is still not a known tourist spot despite being only 35mins drive from Bologna. This chimes well with our experience as there was only us and a couple of girls taking selfies when we visited and you do need a car to get there. There aren’t any tourist shops, just the usual small independent shops, such as coffee bars, pasta shops, butchers etc. Probably there are a few more galleries than your typical village of less than 10,000 residents, but otherwise it is remarkably typical of the area.

Gallery of photos from our visit

I have included the photos from our visit but I have haven’t tagged whether they are mine or Al’s. As usual just assume that the well framed ones in focus are Al’s.

Where we ate

Obviously, being us, we managed to time our visit with lunch. We had spent the previous three days eating and drinking well while we showed Al’s parents around Bologna so we had vowed that we would only have something light, like a sandwich or simple bowl of pasta. We were hungry and looked at a few menus and picked a recommended place that was perched on the side of the village so the terrace, where you were seated to eat, had views across the valley. The restaurant was Cané

The view was breath takingly beautiful and the service formal and old fashioned, but also friendly and welcoming. The waiter brought the standard menu and the tasting menus and, quite frankly, we thought why not? We did not regret it. To eat in such an incredible location, with such expertly cooked local produce was a joy and the price was reasonable too.

The Meat tasting menu
Local wine by the half bottle!
Carpaccio of beef with tomato and rocket salad
Cané’s house tortelloni
Grilled lamb with Sicillian tomatoes
Dessert

It is hard to overstate how amazing this piece of lamb, expertly cooked and accompanied only by a wedge of lemon, piece of lettuce and some incredible grilled tomatoes was. Its emblematic of what I love about Italian food. Great produce, simply cooked.

As we were here it would have been rude not to check in on the winery so after lunch we headed back towards the castle. The winery is in the extensive cellars and there was a lot to choose from. It was a great venue and had a beautiful tasting area/restaurant, although this was not open when we visited. The most famous local red grape is Sangiovese so we decided to take this opportunity to pick up a good bottle. I picked one purely because it was called “You’ll never walk alone” while we were more scientific with our second choice, having researched good years for Sangiovese and agreed a ceiling price. This bottle will probably form part of our Christmas table this year so I’ll keep you posted on whether we chose well or not.

Tag: countryside

Summer in the city