Reaching out to embrace the random

“Reaching out to embrace the random, reaching out to embrace whatever may come,”
Tool

Apologies for the radio silence over the last couple of weeks. For reasons I don’t want to go into on this blog we had to make an unexpected dash to the UK. This, as you all know, coincided with increasing covid infections and death rates both in the UK and Italy, leading to increased Covid restrictions. Suffice to say we have spent an awfully long time in quarantine in various locations and have been tested multiple times, all negative thankfully.

The day before our flight to the UK I learned that I had been successful in getting two new exam preparation courses in local schools from January. With everything else going on at the time it felt very far away and I was more concerned about making those involved aware of my need to be in the UK than allowing myself time to be pleased about them. Our already in Covid limbo life became more surreal in the UK and due to the covid situation we were not able to see any friends or leave the house much. However, we are back despite flight bans, cancellations, new restrictions and announcements from two different governments and not forgetting Brexit. Now it feels possible to start this year, albeit a little delayed. If covid has taught us anything it’s to be wary of thinking anything we plan is certain and to be grateful for what you have.

“What good is warmth of summer without the coldness of winter to make it sweeter?”
John Steinbeck

The immediate future is full of uncertainty including where we will live and work. For the time being we are forced to live in the present, which is no bad thing. I now have three courses to teach for 2 different language schools and 9 private students, which rose to include another 3 potential students this week, so my decision to go self-employed during this period seems to have been a good one but with Al still on cassa integrazione (furlough) it is not enough and it really can’t become enough to keep us here while restaurants remain closed or only partially open. We take each day as it comes, but we need to give some thought to what happens next and what we can do today to bring that closer.

It was always in the plan for me to return to work in Financial Services and to be honest I thought that the time would have come before now. I have made progress with the novel, although I haven’t finished it yet, a couple of other writing projects including this blog and I have built up a good reputation as an English teacher with an increasing number of students and courses. However, I have updated my CV and my Linked In profile and begun the search for a new role. Ideally, I will find one here in Italy or one that allows me to work remotely from here but all options are on the table.

I am proud of what we have achieved in taking the gamble, seizing the opportunity and coming here with a van full of belongings and a headful of dreams. Although 2020 and 2021 will not be the years that we hoped that they would be, we have grown (and not just the waistline) and embraced this experience, showing us what we are capable of, what we have and what we can do. Life has thrown some curve balls at all of us and it’s up to us what we do with them. I know that I have used this quote before but it feels as though it’s been the quote of the year.

“It’s not what happens to you, but how you react to it that matters.”
Epitectus

To this end to make better use of his time while he is on furlough Al has set up a food blog to offer professional tips to home cooks and it can be found here.

We will be out of quarantine on the 1^{st of} February so stand by for more photos of the ever lovely Bologna and surroundings as we become able to visit them again, as well as further updates on what the next step in our adventure will be as events unfold before us.

December 3, 2020

Venice: Once in a lifetime

This week has been cold so to cheer us up Al created his version of the beautiful duck ragù with pappardelle, which we first enjoyed in Venice, and I decided it was time I wrote about our July trip there. As Venice is one of the world’s most visited destinations, there’s a good chance you’ve already been or were planning to go and/or already know quite a lot about it from various programmes and articles. If you wanted more information there are some excellent guides including the late Jan Morris’s book on Venice which is considered a classic or the Wikipedia entry is here and the official tourist site entry is here. I want to share our unique trip in this crazy year, give you an idea what it was like and what we experienced.

Last winter Venice suffered heavier than usual floods and lost a lot of its much relied on tourist income. The waters had barely receded and the buildings were just dried out when covid struck. We went in July when international flights, cancelled during lockdown, had not yet resumed and interregional travel bans had not long been lifted. People were emerging from lockdown but were rightly cautious. After our great experience in Liguria we decided to go to other places that could be reached by train and experience as much as we could, whilst using our, admittedly tight, budget to provide some much needed custom in areas trying to recover while being able to enjoy them at bargain prices without crowds. It seemed a silver lining to the otherwise unrelenting black cloud of Covid that has extended over much of the year and pervaded our daily lives.

Venice Santa Lucia station is on one of the islands that form Venice. You exit into a piazza on the Grand Canal itself and from there you can take one of the Vaporetti water buses which run on specific routes with advertised stops. Venice was built around the canals so the best way to enjoy it is from the water and the Vaporetti allow you to combine public transport with a boat trip along some of the most famous waterways and sites in the world.

We arrived at the station on a Monday around midday and stepped into a pretty empty city. Our Air B&B check in was not until 2 so we planned to have lunch somewhere close by. The Air B&B was on the far side of an island close to a Vaporetti stop. Our host had provided us with written instructions from the stop in Italian and we had foolishly put them through google translate which gave us a set of instructions that talked about foundations and fields and did not reflect where we were. Similarly, we found the provided google pin impossible to locate with the patchy signal available in the densely packed streets.

After a short but enjoyable trip down many alleys and lanes, where we lost our signal repeatedly or found ourselves on completely different streets from where google maps thought we were, we were able determine that the Italian word for foundation “fondatore” is also the name used in Venice for a row of buildings or section of buildings and that the word for field “campo” can mean any open area including squares with not an inch of grass. We had only to decipher the word for alley and we were all set with improved instructions that were, in the end, easy to follow. My advice is to forget google maps and get an old fashioned paper map and a sense of direction.

During our meandering we found a delightful restaurant called “Osteria Ca del Vento”, the owner was chatty and seemed glad of the custom. We had a delicious lunch where we enjoyed the local speciality duck ragù, all washed down with a lovely glass of wine. Once we had located our Airbnb and marvelled at its proximity to the canal, given its low price, we left our bags and went to see the sites.

We walked to Ponte Academia, and took the ferry to Piazza San Marco. Although we had already seen that there were much fewer people than usual, we had not been into any of the main areas except for the station, so nothing had really prepared us for Piazza San Marco. Everyone had seen the emptiness wrought on busy areas by this corona virus, like scenes from apocalyptical films, but to breathe it in, in one of the busiest places in Venice, was like nothing else.

Aside from crowds and crowds of tourists trying to take the usual iconic photos and selfies Piazza San Marco is also usually full of queues for the many museums and galleries: the Basilica, the Ducal palace, The Campanile di San Marco and several smaller galleries concentrated in the square. The Ducal palace and many other museums and galleries were only opening at the weekend so although we weren’t able to go inside them on this trip, the freedom we had to roam the canals and alleys without being pressed or crushed in the sheer volume of others more than made up for it.

We went to the Campanile di San Marco where there were no queues at all. We were able to walk straight in and take the lift to the top from where we were able to photograph views of the city spread out below us.

Views from (and in) the Campanile di San Marco

There is a point on the Grand Canal where you can photograph the Bridge of Sighs which runs between the Doge’s palace and the prison over a canal. Usually this is very crowded, three or four people deep rows full of desperate picture and selfie takers but on this occasion, it was almost deserted and we could take all the photos we wanted.

From Piazza San Marco we headed across town to meet our landlords. As mentioned previously, the owners of our apartment had been transferred to Venice from Bologna. We are on friendly terms and had arranged to meet them for an aperitivo on the Monday evening. Andrea had sent us a google pin of where to meet and some directions. We had developed a technique of heading in roughly the direction we wanted to go, but being prepared to have to back track when there was no bridge where we needed it, or for dead ends or other obstacles, whilst also taking sideways routes in order to move forward eventually, keeping the end direction in mind. Thus, by a rough zigzag and some additional time you can pretty much always get where you want to go and the journey is so beautiful along picturesque canals, over ornate bridges and down tiny alleys that you don’t mind at all.

On our way we stumbled on the famous Libreria Acqua Alta bookshop and had a look around. They are no stranger to floods and have an already established staircase of damaged books in a rear courtyard which you can climb to get a view of the canal behind. Inside the shop was a gondola full of books. We enjoyed nosing around the shelves and looking at all the books before we decided we better get on our way again.

Andrea and family live in a residential area and he told us that during the lockdown they had the whole city to themselves, with the children being able to play out all the time because there was no traffic of any kind. He took us to an area where the locals go to relax and to a canal side bar that had moored a barge to provide overflow seating. Covid restrictions meant that they were strict about numbers seated at tables, so as we could not find a table to accommodate all of us, we sat on the barge. Getting on and off was an adventure as the wake from other boats and movements of other people on board made the barge move. On the barge we drank spritz and ate cicchetti bites which you can buy in the bar for a low price) and talked in a mixture of English and Italian. Al wondered out loud how many people fell into the canal every year and Andrea said that only tourists fall into the canal and usually British ones!

As the sun set our stomachs needed more than cicchetti so Andrea and Nina gave us a restaurant recommendation, “Osteria alla Frasca” which sadly was not open that first night, but we found somewhere else nearby with a good local food selection. After filling up we drifted homewards, noting that the town after nine pm was quiet indeed and darker than we expected. We made our way back to our Air B&B eventually and without falling into any canals.

On Tuesday we tried to find a coffee place that Andrea had recommended for breakfast on our way to visit the fish market. We couldn’t find it at first and so we had coffee at another bar before we strolled around the market area. It’s a working market, not just a tourist attraction, so was quite lively, although not as busy as usual. I bought a new mask of Venetian lace from one of the stalls nearby, not one of the elaborate Venetian masks for which Venice is famed, but a much more functional anti-covid mask that wiley market holders had added to their repertoire. Shortly after we found the recommended coffee bar and enjoyed a lovely drink there before heading for lunch.

We met our Italian teacher, Elena in Southampton, but she’s from a town close to Venice and was on holiday from University, so we arranged to take her to lunch as a thank you for all her help. Her father had recommended a very traditional restaurant down a side street. Waiters were white aproned and formal. We ordered some typical dishes of the region and a bottle of local wine. There is a lot of seafood on the Venetian menu and this restaurant had a fish counter from where you could choose your fish to be cooked to order. I ordered the local scampi. Al had a squid ink dish and Elena had some local fried fish.

After lunch we decided to walk it off and trundled around the streets, Elena took us to some of her favourite places including where the Biennale is held. After a lot of walking we decided to go for aperitivo before dinner so we headed back to the area we had been the previous night, after which we left Elena with some friends and headed to the restaurant that had been recommended by Andrea and Nina and this time it was open. Al noticed that the menu said to ask about daily specials so he did. The waiter brought a selection of well-aged uncooked beef joints and steaks and we were able to pick the piece we wanted to have cooked. We also accepted the accompaniments suggested and were really glad we did because we had an excellent meal and one that we would not have thought to put together.

Next morning, we had decided to take the vaporetti out to Murano and Burano so we jumped on at the station where we had deposited our luggage. You can’t miss the Murano glass in Venetian shops as jewellery or vases and other objet d’art. It really is beautiful and rightly world famous. You can watch glass being made on Murano and buy some direct from the factories. We had a little stroll around and then took the next vaporetti to Burano. Burano is a working fishing village with brightly coloured houses. Householders often have heavily patterned curtains across their doors to allow them to have the door open in the heat, but not allow tourists to peer in. We had breakfast in a café before investigating the shops and the island itself.

On the way back from Burano we decided to get off at Piazza San Marco and go to the Basilica. The Basilica was closed for repairs, but you could still access the museum and roof, we waited in a queue of 3 people for approximately 2 minutes. The usual Covid entry requirements applied. From the museum you can see into the Basilica so we didn’t miss out on too much. One of the fascinating things about the Basilica is that it looks as though it’s been painted in gold, but on closer inspection you can see the whole interior is a series of linked mosaics of Murano glass.

After San Marco we took the ferry to Giudecca the island on the other side of the grand canal. We had been told it was usually a bit quieter than the rest of Venice and this proved to be true with few shops or restaurants open. We eventually found a waterfront place which sold sandwiches and arancini as well as some interesting craft beers so we decided to eat there. It was a lovely spot to watch the canal and afterwards we bought ice-creams with the plan to eat them as we were walking along. We were expecting a twenty minute wait for the next ferry, but almost as soon as we had the ice cream in hand, we saw the ferry pulling in. We needed to get to the station to catch our train home so we rushed onboard, masks on and ice cream melting. In the end we stood well away from everyone else, leant over the side of the boat, masks lifted to eat the ice cream as fast as possible while enjoying our final views in a once in a lifetime opportunity to see Venice as she is seldom seen, without her coating of people, before retrieving our luggage and heading home to Bologna.

November 19, 2020

Lockdown 2.0

Last Thursday when I went to the Meta (Sainsbury’s express equivalent) I had to join a socially distanced queue to get in and I had a flashback to the first lockdown.

It wasn’t the first reminder (Al has been on furlough for a few weeks now) and it won’t be the last. The numbers in Italy remain terrifyingly high and this weekend our region of Emilia Romagna moved from yellow to amber. There were new regional rules: the open air markets could open but with tighter restrictions on numbers and direction of flow (dedicated in and out areas) and some “non-essential” shops were closed. The gyms, museums and cinemas were already closed. Now only one person from a household can go to get groceries, with the familiar caveats for people who need to be accompanied and children. Interregional travel had been stopped with few exceptions, Language schools have been instructed to move to online teaching. You can’t do exercise in the city centre, but you can use the parks. So, we could still go anywhere we want within the region and could go out and have lunch which led to us feeling we were in an almost Lockdown 2.0 but not quite.

It had been a hard week. Al discovered, not unexpectedly, that his restaurant will not reopen after furlough. I am struggling to find students and now feel that I should really only teach online where possible. Luckily, the language school where I teach a couple of conversation classes has moved online so I can continue with those lessons. There is nothing yet to say I can’t continue to teach face to face, but I feel that more people will want online lessons. Friday was a day of tough conversations, soul searching and strategizing so we decided to treat ourselves to an Aperitivo at Mamalo Cafe which is just down the road. It’s quite pubby and local and we like it for that. We had the ubiquitous Spritz con Campari and were brought a plate of nibbles. The owner recognises us and although there hasn’t been much in the way of conversation, we feel welcome.

Saturday morning, we woke up to the realisation that Bologna city (comune) was bringing in tougher restrictions than the region. Bars and restaurants were to be closed except for takeaway starting from Sunday. Open air markets and non-essential shops were closed. Al had been planning to go to some restaurants with his CV, in case any of them needed staff, but now they were all being closed. It’s difficult not to feel downhearted and a little bit thwarted by life.

Our plan, such as it was, was to have this experience while I wrote my novel and Al learned different aspects of Italian cooking, then to return to the UK and start our own food business. It all feels very far away now and quite remote. The writing has not been easy and always seemed to be underscored by my own inability to prioritise what I love doing and practical considerations like earning enough money. The hospitality industry around the world, like so many other industries, has been decimated and while getting a new job for Al is the priority, starting a food business in the UK feels unlikely in the short term. I know, there has been a global pandemic and no one asked for this, no one’s lives are unchanged, but I am feeling self-indulgently down right now.

However, we are well. This experience, certainly since March, might not be what we had planned for this year, but it has meant we were able to have some amazing experiences in places that would usually have been out of our price range, or too full of tourists or both. We have taken advantage of the lack of tourists to see new parts of Italy and experience new things. It is unlikely that anyone will experience an empty St Marks square like that again. We are in an incredibly privileged position that has allowed us this once in a lifetime experience and to guard ourselves against the dramatic ups and downs that has been 2020 so far, its not done yet and I don’t want to be complacent, we are still in a good place, in a beautiful country.

Luckily for us our favourite central bar, Astral put up a post on Saturday to say that they were having a final opening between 3 and 6 that afternoon. We headed down there to support them and drink great beer and wine whilst being super careful about masks, hand sanitizer and social distancing. Astral has been our most regular spot, the guys that run it are knowledgeable and friendly and we feel very at home there. We don’t know how long it will be before we can go out to bars and restaurants again, but as they reminded us when we were there, Astral are still offering delivery for the duration.

So, the future won’t be the one we imagined, so what? It will be different that’s all. There will be new opportunities and options that we couldn’t have dreamed of before. If we keep moving forward with our eyes open who knows what will happen. We’re going to get through this lock down like we did the last one. The world will still turn. Life is going to be tough for everyone for a while, so we need to look after each other, keep our chin up and, when its time, head out into the world and be what happens next.

November 4, 2020

Autumn in Bologna

As I look out of my window to write this the low autumn sun is casting long shadows in the estate next door, I haven’t seen a deer yet, but I am hopeful. The light this week has had a lovely golden quality which picks out the changing leaf colours as well as the edges of buildings and portico features. I am reminded again how lucky we are to be here in Bologna, Italy in this crazy year as we teeter on the brink of further virus control restrictions. As this year has highlighted, there is risk in making any future plans or predictions, but this means that there has never been a better time to appreciate now and be grateful for what you have.

Dejavu

There is no doubting that where we are right now feels like a rerun of March. Al is furloughed again until December at the earliest, although this time there is the menacing shadow of permanent closure. This is sitting hand in hand with the worry that restaurants are not hiring at the moment and that the hospitality industry is in serious trouble everywhere. My teaching had started to pick up since I took advice about turning self-employed but I have already had requests to switch from in the home to online lessons for some students and I don’t know how successful that can be for six to eight year olds. My hope that the Language schools would start to recover and begin hiring again has been quietly dropped for the time being. The main difference this time is that the threat and the worry never really lifted so it lacks the surprise and surrealism and has, instead, been more of a creeping inevitability that hope alone could not keep at bay.

Count your blessings

There are, of course, plenty of things to be thankful for. We are both healthy, our families are safe and well and, so far, we have been spared much direct personal tragedy from this illness. The novel is, finally, cracking on a pace although it seems to be disrupting the blog flow, so apologies about that. I am hopeful of having a draft finished for the end of the year if all goes well. Al has decided to divert his attentions into guitar practice and baking again so although I had only just made a dent in tackling the lockdown weight gain, I am about to start being fed delicious baked treats again. Time to up the exercise before we are required to stay in the house, perhaps I need to start attending your online Pilates evening classes too Chrissy May?

Autumn in Bologna

Spring and Autumn are undoubtedly the best seasons in Bologna. We missed a lot of spring due to the first lockdown so it has been lovely to see summer give way to autumn. It seemed as if the weather knew when the month turned as the first day of September featured rain finally after weeks of dry weather and rainless thunderstorms. The leaves started to change colour and, with the conkers, began to drop. It’s chestnut season right now so you see chestnut roasters in the city streets. Everyday I get updates from Apennines discovery about the beautiful landscapes on our doorsteps so we decided to take advantage of the dry clear weather and went for a walk in the hills at the grotte di labante this weekend. The museums were still open so we trotted along to the musical instruments museum a week or two ago and to the Monet exhibition that is on at the moment. You have to book in advance and wear your mask, of course, but for both exhibitions we were able to get in for free with our Bologna Welcome cards.

The restaurants and bars we have been going to have always been great at sticking to the rules and making sure there are socially distanced tables, hand sanitizer, mask wearing, table service and high levels of cleanliness so it does seem a shame that there has been a national ruling about this because of venues that were not, but to this end all bars and restaurants are being closed at 6pm now, so we have been trying to show support by having the occasional lunch out, as our more limited resources allow.

The treasures at hand

This past week or so I have been trying to remember to take photos while I am out so I can capture the many hidden gems and famous beauties of this magical city as we move through the year. Every time I go to write this blog I am struck by the things I forgot to take pictures of or don’t seem to have ever captured. Partly this is because I am busy enjoying these things in real time, but although a photo can never capture the reality of being somewhere they are useful in that they give people who weren’t there a glimpse into what it was like and are good prompts for the memory later. It seems my memory could use all the prompts it can get.

Next phase

As I conclude this post Italy has just announced a tier rating for restrictions. Bologna is a green zone so we have the least amount of additional measures applied. Most of the new restrictions don’t really affect us: 10pm to 5am curfew, High schools moved to 100% online teaching, travel between regions is restricted. Milan and other cities are in Red Zones and so have the highest additional measures, which is difficult but understandable given the current situation. So we settle in as autumn moves to winter, we will continue to minimise our going out to exercise, shopping for essentials and work (while there is still some), wearing our masks and washing our hands often when we do so. Stay safe out there and keep well.

October 13, 2020

How to get your Attestazione di Iscrizione Anagrafica?

A couple of weeks ago Al and I were able to go to the Comune (local council office) and get our Attestazione di Iscrizione Anagrafiche. As far as we know we have now complied with all Brexit requirements to allow us to stay and work. Of course, this was based on the signing of the Withdrawal Agreement in January this year and would, most likely, depend on that being honoured, which we wouldn’t have thought too much about, but…

What is the Attestation Iscrizione Anagrafica?

This is the document that the Italian government have decreed, following the signing of the Withdrawal agreement, that UK citizens who registered for Italian residency (Residenza) before 31^st January 2020 need to obtain from the Ministero del Intero (Ministry of the interior) via your local Comune office before the end of the transition period 31^st December 2020.

Given that this document is for people that were already resident in Italy it is not entirely clear what the purpose of another attestation is, however it is worth noting that you need residency if you stay in Italy longer than 3 months so I suspect that it is both possible and likely that some people will have left the country not intending to return. The Attestation would then be a way of confirming who is here and planning to stay after 31^st December 2020

Who can get it?

According to the UK Government website pages about what you need to do as a UK Resident living in Italy if you obtained Residency before the 31^st January 2020 you can get the new attestation. The Italian government have provided this information for those who already have residency and those who are currently applying. The information about the attestation and copies of the form are included here (N.B these last two links are to documents in Italian).

What was the process?

Making the appointment at the Comune

We went on the website for the Comune in Bologna and selected the one that had managed our residency application. We were able to book an appointment online, however there is not yet an option for Attestation Iscrizione Anagrafica, so we booked the one that sounded the most similar “Rilascio Certificati Anagrafici” (Release of personal certificates) and added in the comments the name of the document we wanted. On the Bologna Comune system you have to book an appointment for each person so we booked two next to each other. The system gives you a booking reference and emails reminders to you.

Attending the appointment with documentation

Previous Comune experience meant that we each have folders containing all our personal information, certificates, contracts, passports etc. from all our dealings with the Comune so we have a better chance of ensuring we have everything needed for the appointment. That said, as we knew that we were requesting something new I fully expected that we would end up being told we needed to make a follow up appointment.

Included in our pack was the circular from the Ministero dell’Interno (linked again here) which included the references to local and EU laws and agreements. We think that this was a crucial document for our success in getting the certificate, so we strongly urge you to take this with you.

Obtaining the marca da bollo

Some documents require an official stamp or bollo. This, it appears, is one of them. The bollo can’t be purchased in the Comune (some admin charges can be done by card in the Comune, but not this one). It needs to be purchased from a Tabaccheria, these usually have a T sign outside them indicating what services they offer, aside from selling tobacco products, and you need to ask for the bollo for the amount that you want. In this case we needed two €16 bollo. You can buy them in advance of the appointment. We have usually had to pay cash for them and this may be a requirement of the bollo system.

Getting the Anagrafica

Once we had the bollo we needed only to pay the tax in cash which was a couple of Euros. He then completed the documents based on our Carte d’Identità (ID Cards) and made the necessary signatures and stamps. We have filed these away in our personal documents file. They may never see the light of day again, but at least we have them.

Extra tips

The process was not quite as bad as we had feared however, we think there are a few key things that you need to do or have with you to make this as easy as possible. Remember this is completely new to Comune staff too and they haven’t necessarily been briefed or trained on what the Italian Government has set out.

Bear in mind that during this pandemic there are less appointments available than usual and you have to pre-book so there might be some time before the next available appointment.
Book appointments for each person that needs one, don’t assume that you can all attend the same appointment because you want the same thing.
Take the circular from the ministry of the interior and additional blank copies of the form, for however many you need. Be prepared to give this to the clerk.
If you can book online write in the comments what the document you want is called. If you have to make appointments over the phone or in person be clear that this is what the appointment is for. The better prepared they are able to be the better it will be for you.
Take all your documents. Take your original application for residency, your certificate (if you paid for one), your codice fiscale, your passport, your ID card, your employment contract, recent payslips, your rental contract. Take everything you can think of. You probably won’t need them, but you never know and if you have had dealings with Italian bureaucracy you probably already have this file.
Be patient. There is a good chance that the person who is dealing with you has not done this before or hasn’t done many. It will take as long as it takes.
A smile will take you a million miles, this is always true, but worth remembering.

As I said at the beginning, this may all be moot if the UK Government fails to honour the Withdrawal Agreement, because then no one knows what will happen. Until we know more all we can do is be as prepared as we can and hope for the best.

Any feedback on the usefulness of this guide would be gratefully received.

September 6, 2020

Summer in the city

August is when Italians traditionally go on holiday. Ferragosto is officially on the 15^th with people using that national holiday as the start or end point of their break. This year the date fell on the weekend so seemed to start the week before and extend into the week after. It’s been a tough year.

Bologna in August

August in Bologna is particularly hot and humid (especially this year when there were weeks in the mid-30s with temperatures barely dropping at night and little rain). “No one stays here in August” we were told when we first arrived last year. Many people have second homes on the coast or in the mountains to where they wholly or partly decamp to escape the weather. Last year we had long standing plans to be away for most of August so this year was our first experience.

We had noticed that weekends are quiet as soon as the schools break up because everyone heads to the beach, but that’s nothing compared to the exodus in August. We were not sure if this year would be the same as so many businesses were closed for quarantine, however it didn’t seem to make any difference. In fact, I feel it might even have been emptier this year as people were desperate to take advantage of the travel opportunity having been stuck in their homes for so long. The empty streets were like those at the height of lockdown and nearly all our favourite food shops and go to spots closed. This gave us an opportunity to investigate new places, go slightly further afield and try out different suppliers, but the pickings were slim.

With Al working for four days a week it was not exactly holiday time but we made the most of the three days a week he has off with a short break in Verona, a day out at an aqua park and other events still running around the city.

Bologna Station Massacre 1980

The month started with a sombre occasion. The 40^th anniversary of the Bologna station bombing which killed 85 people, injured more than 200 hundred and destroyed a large part of the station. It was one of the many acts of domestic terrorism that occurred during the “years of lead”, when Italy was plagued by violence from groups on the far left and far right of politics. The bombing was one of the last acts of this period, which began in the late 60’s, as people were so shocked by this incident it consolidated public opinion and the determination to bring these actions to an end. As you can imagine it was a big deal here with as much socially distanced commemoration as could be achieved. You can read more detail about these years and get further reading suggestions here.

Banner commemorating 40 years since the Bologna Station Bombing

Under the stars Cinema (Sotto le Stelle del Cinema)

The under the stars cinema programme is undoubtedly a highlight of the Bolognese summer. Usually the cinema is arranged with a large screen and seats set outside in the main square (Piazza Maggiore) which are available on a first come, first served basis or you can sit on the cathedral steps, or bring your own camping chair and add to the end of the rows. People bring along picnics or get takeout from nearby restaurants and bars. Bologna is home to the Cinema Ritrovato where they remaster and restore old films you can enjoy some classics. As it is also supported by the Cineteca, you can watch films in their original language with Italian subtitles, a rare treat as films are usually dubbed in Italian. Last year we watched The Doors with remastered soundtrack introduced by Oliver Stone as well as “Silence of the lambs” which was especially atmospheric with the sound bouncing around the piazza buildings.

This year, with Coronavirus, we thought the event was done for, but we shouldn’t have worried, although it had been altered, it was still on. Due to covid restrictions there were only 1000 seats and you needed to book tickets online so the necessary social distancing could be arranged. Sadly, the restrictions included prohibiting eating and you need to wear your mask at all times, so no food was allowed. The piazza was also closed for anyone without a booking so we have had to take some detours to avoid it.

As in previous years, you could book into one of the piazza restaurants and bars that overlook the screen and watch the movie while eating a meal or having a drink as these venues are already socially distanced. As we had a guest visiting, we decided to book a table at Signor Vino for the first night of her stay, from where we could watch “The Great Escape”. Our meal was excellent and the staff magnificent. The obligatory introduction came to an end and we were all glued to the screen as the film started. Sadly, about 20 minutes in we noticed that people in the piazza had started to get up from their seats and head over to where we were in the restaurant. We quickly identified that the heavens had opened. We felt relatively secure at our table as it was under a portico, but the wind picked up and soon we were getting drenched too. The screen began showing a message that the film would not continue. Despite our, and the staffs, valiant efforts to pull the table further under the portico, it was hopeless and we abandoned the table for one inside. So, at least now I know what happens if it rains on a cinema night.

Casa di Custode, Villa Ghigi

Villa Ghigi is a formerly private estate gifted to the people of Bologna via a foundation. The park at Villa Ghigi was a place of salvation for us as the first of the lockdown restrictions were lifted, which you can read about here. The villa itself is an imposing structure and still very beautiful and evocative, but I am sorry to say that it is in a poor state of repair. It is currently in the running for restoration funding due to a great initiative by FAI (Italian Environmental Fund) and you can vote for the Villa here on their site.

Next to the villa is a small building called the Casa di Custode. Usually this is completely closed but in the summer it forms the base of operations for a bar. The counter is outside, with the menu very clearly stating it sells beer and wine only. Trestle tables are set up with a random assortment of stools and chairs. Lights are strung between the casa and the villa. Covid restrictions meant less tables than previously and at busy times these were only available if pre-booked. It’s a beautiful location to stop and admire the greenery as well as being a welcome reward for walking up the steep slopes to get there.

The Acquapark

As the heat continued to build we took refuge at the Acquapark in the hills near Bologna. The air was, thankfully, fresher here and we enjoyed spending our time between the pools. We had originally planned a beach day, but we realised that’s where all the people who were usually in Bologna had gone and so all the beaches would be busy and expensive. The park made a great substitute, we got to paddle and relax, whilst maintaining social distancing and with everything we needed on hand. We thought the day tickets were good value and the food and drink concessions had something for everyone and were plastic free.

End of Summer

As wonderful as the summer was I have to say that when the heavens opened on final weekend of August I couldn’t have been happier. It felt like it was cleaning away the dust, dirt, grit and sweat of the previous weeks. We have had great times and been to beautiful places, we have some new favourites and new experiences. We even managed a return visit to Dozza (you can read about our previous visit here) as well as a few days in Venice and Verona, but the summer is ending and we need to get on. It was also bittersweet because we have had to say goodbye to Alice, who has decided to move on to a new opportunity in a new location. She is one of Al’s colleagues and has been very welcoming to us, making sure we were included in many events and occasions. She has been a big part of our getting to know the city, we will miss her and we wish her the best of luck for the future.

Alice in Borgo Mameli for her leaving drinks

As the summer draws to a close I am enjoying the cooler nights and the feeling that things are starting again. Everything has reopened and feels fresh. At the risk of poking the hubris bear, whose 2020 game has been a strong one so far, I am feeling hopeful for the future in a way I wasn’t before. Let’s see how that goes.

June 17, 2020

A Day out in Modena

This week we decided to use the recent lifting of regional movement restrictions and to take advantage of Al’s days off by going to Modena.

A very short description of Modena

Modena is a city in the region Emilia Romagna. There has been a settlement here since 187BC and the Duomo, which was built 1000 years ago, is included in the UNESCO world heritage site that can be explored in Grande Piazza. There is a long standing rivalry between Bologna and Modena as they used to be competing city states, typical of neighbouring cities and towns the world over. There was a series of battles known as the war of the Bucket (1325) when the opposing factions fought each other. The Modenese fighters took a bucket from Bologna as a trophy and it (or one meant to replicate it) is on display in the Torre della Ghirlandia to this day.

Modena is the home of Balsamic vinegar, but not the stuff you can buy from the supermarket in the UK, the product here is produced from grape must, thick and sweet and takes at least 12 years to ferment, using a centuries old process. You only need to use a tiny amount, let down with olive oil which is good news as even a small bottle will set you back, but it should last for years. Modena and the area immediately surrounding it has a large number of products of either DOP (products of a protected origin) or IGP (products with a protected region) meaning that you cannot buy the same product anywhere else. The city’s proximity to Bologna means that many of the regional dishes are the same, but there are some interesting variations to look out for.

Modena is also home to Lambrusco (sparkling red wine), Ferrari and Maserati cars as well as the world famous tenor Luciano Pavarotti.

How to get to Modena

Modena is about 38 km from Bologna and easily accessible by rail or car. On the train from Bologna it can take between 17 and 29 minutes depending on whether you get the slower regional train or the faster Freccia Rossa and the tickets are priced to reflect this. On this occasion we drove and chose to go via the slower, toll free roads, which are more picturesque. Like many Italian cities, the centre of Modena is covered by a ZTL (traffic limitation zone) where cars are either not permitted to enter at all or are extremely restricted. The fines for infringement of the ZTL are high and its possible to get more than one in a day so be careful if you are driving about. A brief amount of research meant that I was able to get a map of the Modena ZTL and find a free car park outside it. Modena is a compact city so parking outside the centre is not a problem. Our free car park was next to the stadium, from where it is a 10 minute pleasant walk to the Grande Piazza.

What to eat?

The Italian version of the tourist information site of Modena lists an ideal Modenese menu; starting with salumi (sliced cured meats), followed by tortelloni stuffed with pork, prosciutto and Parmigiano Reggiano (parmesan cheese). They also recommend Zampone or Cotechino, which are local types of cured sausage, but they are not for the faint hearted. They are true to the concept of nose to tail eating in that they contain some of the parts of the animal that we don’t usually, knowingly, consume. For my tastes they are too greasy and too gristly. Al, on the other hand, really likes them. After the sausages they recommend slices of Parmigiano Reggiano with a small quantity of local balsamic vinegar and all washed down with a bottle of the local Lambrusco. You may have heard of Lambrusco before and even have an opinion about it but I urge you to put that aside and try it in Modena. It’s a delicious sparkling ruby red wine and my friend Jess is particularly partial to a glass or two when she visits. The meal is finished with some local cherries or other fruits or something called Zuppa Inglese, a kind of firm custard, served with Amaretti biscuits.

As we were only having lunch we were not looking for a full set of courses and had a recommendation from a friend. Ristretto is found in a narrow alley a short distance from the Duomo. Although the weather forecast was bleak and the skies were grey, we opted to sit outside on one of the tables along the alley. The menu was short but it was still hard to choose. In the end we had passatelli with prosciutto crudo in a parmesan cream sauce. Passatelli is a pasta made from breadcrumbs and parmesan cheese. We accompanied it with a glass of dry white wine. The meal was delicious and they are noted for their wine selection so I highly recommend eating there.

The unassuming entrance to Osteria Francescana

I couldn’t possibly talk about food without referencing Modena’s 3 Michelin starred restaurant, the Osteria Francescana, owned by Massimo Bottura. It has been listed in the top 5 at the World’s Best Restaurants since 2010. Al is a huge fan of Massimo Bottura, his approach to cooking and his focus on minimising waste and increasing sustainability and although I would like to say that we have eaten there, as yet, we have not been so fortunate. However, we did slope past to have a look at the outside. Eating here is a once in a lifetime event and you need to book a long time in advance i.e. they are currently booking for tables in January 2021. The 12 course tasting menu costs €290 with the wine pairing €190 on top. We were fortunate enough to eat in Thomas Keller’s French Laundry pop up in Harrods a couple of years ago so I’m sure that it would be worth it, but it’s just a little out of reach at the moment.

Fast Cars and Opera Stars

Ferrari’s are not made in Modena any more, the works having transferred operations to nearby Maranello, however there is the Museum of Enzo Ferrari, in the original factory, where they have a nice selection of cars for you to drool over and, for those who know about these things, a hall of engines. The trident of Maserati was modelled on the trident on the statue of Neptune in Bologna as Maseratis were made in Bologna for a while. It is interesting to think that the origins of motor racing and the Grand Prix were on the roads around here.

You can also visit the House of Luciano Pavarotti at the gates of the city. He lived in this house for the last 9 years of his life. He had a passion for horses and bred them here as well as holding an annual horse contest. Unfortunately, we did not have time to visit on this occasion.

I would highly recommend Modena for a weekend break or a day trip or even as a base to explore the wider region. It is very beautiful and an easy city to navigate on foot. There are plenty of cafes and bars for you to stop at when you need a break and interesting museums and churches to investigate.

Lion at the entrance to the Duomo on Grande Piazza

June 8, 2020June 8, 2020

Looking forward

This week Al has returned to work and I have been looking for a new job and visiting reopened shops.

Paper wrapped purchases from the Quadrilatero

Establishing new patterns (the new normal)

Al started back at the restaurant on Monday to prepare for reopening the restaurant on Tuesday, which was a national holiday (Republic day). FICO World Eataly, the food centric theme park (their words), where’s Al’s restaurant is located, had decided on a big relaunch for Republic day. They had targeted their advertising locally as inter regional travel was still not permitted until the end of the week. It’s been a long time since people in Bologna have been able to eat out and go anywhere so it was not surprising that it was busy on the re-opening day. The following days were quieter, but they were ordinary working days, so this weekend is the real test.

I, on the other hand, have still been largely at home. I am splitting my time between looking for a new job and writing. Initially I had set aside an hour a day to trawl job sites and apply for any promising looking roles, but it soon seemed to develop into a rabbit hole of amended CVs and cover letters and very little writing happening. This is typical when you are constantly plagued with the notion that your writing is self-indulgent and struggle to prioritise it. I flipped my day around and decided to start writing first and then job hunt if there was time after.

So far, my job search has not yielded any responses, but these are odd times. I have set myself a sort of deadline and if I have not managed to find something more in line with what I want to be doing, I will start hitting up old contacts to see if I can get a contract in what I used to do.

Hay Festival (on line)

Hay festival is a UK literary festival held in Hay-on-Wye every year. The town of Hay-on-Wye is widely renowned for its many second hand and new bookstores, so it makes sense that there is a festival dedicated to literature here too. We have attended the festival twice and really enjoyed it. This year we were not intending to go as we are here in Italy, but as it turned out the festival was cancelled anyway due to Corona virus. Indeed, the whole area remains in lockdown as Hay is part of the Brecon beacons national park in Wales which remains closed to the public. However, someone at Hay Festival had the brilliant Idea of putting the festival online. As we were signed up for festival updates we received an email with the line up from 18^th to 31^st May. It was free to sign up for any of the events and you could sign up to as many as you wanted. Knowing it was going to be Al’s last week before returning to work we went through the listing and signed up to several events.

Highlights included, John Sopel’s “A year at the circus: inside Trump’s White House”, Adam Rutherford talking about his book “How to argue with a racist”, Paul Dolans challenging discussion of his book “F**k the narrative”, William Dalrymple talking about his book “The Anarchy” detailing the original Mega corp that was too big to fail – The East India Company, including how the British Government ended up colonising India and our largely untaught shameful colonial past. On the more light hearted end of the scale there was Natalie Haynes with Chris Riddell for a live drawing of Troy Story; Allie Esiri, Helena Bonham Carter and Dominic West performing “A journey through a year of Shakespeare” and with Sandy Toksvig closing the festival in her own inimitable way.

You can still find the listing for the events on their website and for £10 you can sign up for the Hay player and access the recordings of all the events from the festival this year plus loads more content from other Hay festivals, including in other locations across the world. I am hoping that Hay Festival will use this experience to allow people to watch remotely in future.

An idea whose time has come (Victor Hugo)

It seemed oddly prescient that the talks which had the most impact on us were the ones about race, identity and the untaught and unacknowledged British past, given the turbulent week following the tragic death of George Floyd. It seems ridiculous that there would be any argument about Black Lives matters, but I have seen some of the most racist things I have ever read posted online and in response to the protests and demonstrations. Events have reminded me of my privilege and my power and I have been inspired to write a longer piece in response to this, but I am not finished with it yet. My journey into Hay had encouraged me to buy some books (but not from Amazon) and this week has added a few additional items to the list so I can educate myself.

If you, like me, are looking for information about what more you anti-racist actions you can take or how you can be a better ally the Hay player and Waterstones are showcasing works by black writers and artists as well as works on UK and US history in relation to race, colonialism etc. under the banner “Black Lives Matter”. There are a number of you tube and videos out there and amongst the most useful I found was this one from Joe.co.uk.

To quote the final thoughts in this video and lyrics from the musical Hamilton “this is not a moment, it’s a movement”

Stay safe, educate yourself and fight racism.

Anti-Racism protest – Bologna 6th June 2020

June 1, 2020

Ravenna

To celebrate being able to travel within the region and to get a change of scenery we decided to go to Ravenna, a small city in Emilia Romagna close to the Adriatic Sea, about an hour’s drive from Bologna. We wanted to get out and see other towns and the car needed to have a decent run before it was pressed back into commuter service this week.

Why Ravenna?

We chose Ravenna because we have a friend, Esther, who lives there that we have been threatening to visit for some time, before the lockdown made it impossible. It is believed to be more than 2000 years old and is the spot where Julius Caesar gathered his forces to cross the Rubicon. Eight of the churches form part of a UNESCO world heritage site regarding Early Christianity. It’s famous for the ornate mosaics that adorn several its building interiors and for being the location of Dante’s tomb. Although Museums and Galleries are now allowed to open, many in Ravenna had chosen not to, so we were not able to see inside many of these sites on this visit.

Out in the Countryside

On the way to Ravenna we chose to go off toll road so we could see more of the country. Once you get beyond the hills of Bologna (part of the Apennines) the land opens into a huge flat belt called the Po valley. You could see for miles. When you see open land like this it reminds you why hedgerows are such a distinctive feature of the British landscape. Here are scant hedges, walls or fences. There are some border ditches, but this may be as much for irrigation as land ownership demarcation. The land here is agricultural as you might expect from a flat plain. There were farms all along the route with groves of fruit trees or vineyards. The roads here are slower particularly when you go through towns, so our journey took an hour and a half.

Quiet streets

Ravenna is an incredibly beautiful city and despite the museums and galleries being closed we were perfectly happy walking around the streets, which were noticeably quiet and uncrowded. It meant we could take our time looking at whatever we wanted and taking photos. I didn’t think to record everything I was taking photos of so some of my images are not captioned. We assiduously practiced social distancing and wore our masks while we were walking around. We were very conscious that we did not want to risk getting the virus at this stage nor spreading it here. Esther is keen to travel to see her father who is back home in Holland as soon as possible so like us she did not want to take any chances.

Lunch

Obviously, we couldn’t possibly have visited without stopping to have lunch. Esther recommended a restaurant and we went to see if we would be able to get in. Ca’ de Ven is a lovely traditional enoteca, cantina and restaurant. We were able to get a table immediately because it was quiet. Our masked waiter led us in, past other masked staff some with full face shields. Inside diners sit at long wooden tables in a large hall with a vaulted ceiling. The tables, which would usually seat six comfortably were marked with where you were able to sit to maintain social distancing. We had a whole table to ourselves, two on one side with a chair between and one on the other. Al and Esther chose from the specials menu while I chose something traditional. I could have kicked myself afterwards because I have been craving fish for ages, but it’s quite expensive to buy in Bologna and this was the perfect place to have had some. Never mind, the meals were delicious as was the wine. Esther told us that this restaurant was usually busy with office staff on their lunch breaks and she was surprised to find it so empty on a weekday.

This has been in line with our experience of Bologna, things are opening back up, but many people are choosing to stay away. I think most people have dropped the eating and drinking out culture that is their usual mode and like us they are selecting maybe one or two venues a week to meet up with a small group of friends for a drink or a meal. The rest of the time remaining at home and keeping up with other protective measures.

The Beach

We decided to go home via the beach as we had not seen the sea in 5 months. It was trickier to get to than we had anticipated and necessitated driving through a foul smelling Industrial zone. Beaches here are still closed but were merely going to ease our minds with the sight of the swell, not planning on a dip. In our experience many Italian beaches have resorts where you need to pay for beach access or a sun lounger, there doesn’t seem to be very much in terms of the public access beaches we are used to in the UK. We parked up when we could see signs and walked along an access road though a lovely wood. At the end of the road there were two resorts, but with cordons across their entrances. There were, unsurprisingly, not many people around and most of those we saw were employees of the resort restaurants gearing up for evening service. The beach itself was sandy and seemed pleasant enough, but out to sea there were industrial buildings and rigs. Nonetheless, the waves pounded gently on the shore and together with the salt air gave us the familiar reassurance we were looking for, so we headed back to the car and home.

May 24, 2020

The beginning of the end of Lockdown?

On 18^th May we knew some more of our lockdown restrictions were being lifted, thanks to lower infection and death rates. However, on 16^th May’s announcement Conte (Italian President) surprised us with more relaxations than were expected. It included the opening of bars and restaurants so you could eat and drink in which was a pleasant surprise but did come with the caveat that social distancing must be maintained and that you must wear a mask (except while eating or drinking). Coupled with the relaxation of travel within the region that had been expected we were getting quite a bit more freedom than we have had for some months. So, this week we intrepid two have been back to the centre of Bologna to see what these changes look like in practice

Piano piano (step by step)

It is important to remember that Corona Virus has not gone away. There is a real need to maintain the measures that have been put in place to save lives, reduce the burden on the healthcare system and minimise new infections. Any of loosening of restrictions are at risk should rates of infection start to climb again or if people abuse the situation and abandon the restrictions that are still in place. We are in new territory here and every decision must be fraught with what ifs and the shadow of the law of unintended consequences, necessitating a trial and error approach. With each relaxation there is a two week window before we can be sure if the new situation is increasing cases or not. If it is there is a need to roll back and try again.

We are acutely aware that the situation remains precarious. We have not been going out just for the sake of it and our manner has not suddenly become dismissive or flippant. We have been extremely careful about our and others safety while we are out and we are still at home for the majority of the time. However, it is also true that many businesses have suffered a great deal so if we can spend money in the market or in a bar that we would have spent in a supermarket it’s a better use of our resources.

I understand that there have been reports in the UK press about Italians not maintaining distancing, not wearing masks, crowding into certain areas etc. I cannot speak to whatever has been reported, I can only give you my experience, which is in general a maintenance of social distancing and mask wearing, with some predictable exceptions.

Monday mooch

On the first day of relaxation we decided to take our daily exercise by going into Bologna centre and seeing what differences the relaxations had made. We packed our gloves so that we would be able to go to the market this time. There were more cars on the roads and more people in the street, but still less than usual. Many shops had reopened, but they all had masked employees and there were Perspex screens at till points. Some stores were allowing customers in, in small numbers, to look around while others had set up tables and screens at the entrance and would fetch what was required. All customers were masked. Many shops have instructions about how you can access the shop e.g. mask wearing is obligatory, two customers at a time, use hand sanitizing station before entering etc. The restaurant opening had clearly caught others by surprise and we saw staff frantically disinfecting premises and organising socially distanced seating.

This was a much more positive visit than our last trip to the city centre. There was a general air of optimism and activity. We were able to go to our favourite fruit and vegetable stall in the market, with mask and gloves on. We exchanged pleasantries with the stall holder about being glad to be back. There were socially distanced queues outside Comet and, sadly, the Nespresso store. People with bags from clothing stores were clearly here to shop. However, it was cut with some sadness too. There were empty tables in the restaurants and bars that had opened. Empty shops waiting for customers. There were shops that had not reopened and perhaps won’t. Some restaurants and bars have not reopened as the cost of doing so would not be offset by the few customers they would be able to accommodate.

Hill climbs and much needed exercise

I quite often post photos that I take in our garden, which has a great view into the hills. This week we decided the climb the hill that our garden looks onto and take a picture of our apartment. It is a very steep walk and we were not sure if we would be able to get views of San Luca from the top. The short answer is that we couldn’t, as it turns out there us another hill between this one and the one San Luca sits on. However, it was a great walk and at one section it forms part of a national walking trail, which we followed into Parco Villa Ghigi. The weather was threatening rain, so the park was much quieter than when I had been at the weekend when it was full of picnickers and what looked suspiciously like large family gatherings and groups of teenagers ahead of the Monday official start of restrictions being relaxed.

Aperitivo a Zanarini

Caffe Zanarini is a lovely pasticceria in a beautiful piazza next to the Cathedral and Piazza Maggiore. You can sit at an outside table and watch the fashionistas on Via Farini. It serves a very gentile Aperitivo and is somewhere we go when we want to treat ourselves. It is immensely popular and at times we have not been able to get in because there are too many people already waiting. Back in March we celebrated a year of being in Bologna with Aperitivo there just before the lockdown was announced so it seemed a logical bookend to go there to celebrate the re-opening. Al called and was able to make a reservation for that evening. The tables outside were spaced widely apart and the staff all wore masks. Tables needed to be cleared very quickly because the minute someone left a flock of hungry pigeons would descend on whatever was left, fighting and flapping over the scraps. Who knows what they’ve been eating while the centre of the city has been deserted? The experience was non the less wonderful for that. It was very positive to be able to go out to a bar and sit watching the world go by with a Campari spritz and some delicate morsels to eat.

In this situation it sometimes feels as though we are in some kind of time slip where we are two weeks ahead of the UK, this was certainly true when we were starting to go into the Lockdown and the UK were still stubbornly saying that what was happening in Italy would not happen there. The feeling persists now and I hope, as we start to enter a period which feels like the beginning of the end we can give those of you in the UK some hope and show you that soon you will have more to look forward to. Where will you go first when the pubs and restaurants are reopened?