As part of our plan to see as much of Italy as possible during Al’s extended days off we booked a break in Verona. It’s just less than an hour by train from Bologna on the intercity train service. We chose an Airbnb in the old town, close to the river with aircon as we had suffered from over a week of poor sleep in Bologna due to the heat. The Covid 19 virus had once again taken its toll on the number of usual visitors and we were able to take advantage of lower accommodation costs although Verona had more tourists than other places we have visited recently. We mostly heard German and French accents with one or two Italians from other regions asking advice about local produce.

Verona has a long history of involvement in the arts, particularly music; from the Roman Amphitheatre which still hosts live performances including at least one Opera Festival, to the old castle that now houses an art museum with plenty in between. It’s also the setting for two Shakespeare plays “Romeo and Juliet” and “Two Gentlemen of Verona”. It is fair to say that the Shakespeare influence is evident in many shop names such as “The merchant of Venice” and tourist sites like “Juliet’s house” ,complete with legendary balcony, “Romeo’s house” and “Juliet’s tomb”. However, it has plenty of other things to recommend it too.

Where is it?

Verona is in the region of Veneto in the north of Italy, west of Venice and close to Lake Garda. Its location means that the air here is fresher than in Bologna and many people stop here on their way to the Italian lakes or to cross the borders into France or Switzerland, which are close by.

What to see?

Verona is one of the main tourist destinations of the region because of its many attractions, its 2,000 year history and important location. Its magnificent architecture and city structure were awarded UNESCO world heritage site status.

The Arena

Built in Roman times one of the few remaining arena in Italy. It is an impressive structure and there are information boards giving the history of the arena, various adjustments and extensions to it and the many uses it has had over the years before being renovated to be used as an Opera and live music venue. Sadly, there were no opera performances scheduled while we were there, but you could look around during the day (except Mondays) which is what we did. If you walk to the top of the stands you get an interesting view over Verona but be warned, in the heat of the day it can be a dizzying experience.

Juliet’s House

This tourist favourite still attracted a lengthy queue every day despite the low overall tourist numbers. You can see the famous balcony from the entrance, but you need to go in to get your selfie and visit Juliet’s house museum. We went when the queue was shortest and only waited 10 minutes or so. The museum boasts historically relevant themes over 9 rooms, but some of them were closed when we visited, although this was not reflected in the price. However, it was not expensive and given that Juliet is a fictional character we went more for the experience than the learning opportunity.

Castelvecchio (The old castle)

The old castle is interesting because it is now an art gallery showing a great collection of art from an extensive period in history. It is organized into time periods which allows you to see how art in general, and religious art in particular, has changed over time. There is also quite an impressive armoury: swords, lances and suits of armour etc. Unfortunately, it doesn’t really retain any of the detail from when it was a home or mention much about the history of the castle itself and who lived there, unless I missed it.

The Adige River

The old part of the city is almost encircled by the river so there are a number of picturesque and important bridges uniting the old city with other areas. It is well worth planning a meander across of few of them to get an alternate view of the city and see some other parts away from the main tourist spots.

Giardino Giusti

The house and gardens of Giardini Giusti are well worth a visit. There are only a couple of rooms in the villa open to the public but they are sumptuously decorated and evocative of an earlier time. The gardens themselves are beautifully laid out with paths all around. Sadly the lion’s head no longer breathes fire, but you can climb up the tower in the cliff face to emerge in the “secret” garden on top, with excellent views of the city. You can get guides from the ticket office for both the garden and the open rooms.

Where to Eat?

Here are our top tips for Verona, all personally sampled and recommended.

Breakfast

Pasticceria Flego

Great range of Brioche in a local institution.

Aperitivo/lunch

Osteria Caffe Monte Baldo

Impressive range of wine as well as cocktails and a great Aperitivo. We came here for a glass of local wine when we first arrived and it was so good we came back for Aperitivo. Staff are patient and friendly.

Osteria del bugiardo

Wine, tagliere and secondi. We had their Valpolicella and it was great.

Antica Bottega del Vino

Traditional restaurant serving local classics such as Risotto con Amarone. It has an extensive wine list including several pages devoted to local the local wine Valpolicella. A uniquely Veronese establishment. I don’t think a visit to Verona can be complete without a stop here.

Maratonda – Craft beer pub

Good range of local and international craft ales.

Terrazza Bar Al Ponte

Aperitivo, cocktails with a view over the river

Dinner

Hosteria Vecchia Fontanina

Traditional food, slow service, large portions. Staff were excellent despite being busy.

Locanda 4 Cuochi

A more modern innovative approach to Italian cooking. We had the tasting menu and it was delightful. The staff were attentive and friendly.

Summary

Our main take away from Verona was a new found appreciation for Valpolicella. We drank a few excellent examples and found people who were happy to give advice on what to look for and how to choose the best one to suit you. We would like to have gained an appreciation of Amarone too, but with prices starting at €60 a bottle, this was out of our budget.

Verona is a very beautiful city with excellent local cuisine. Although there are places which cater to the tourists you can also find delightful local dishes such as the risotto Amarone, duck ragù and horse stew. Its historical strategic importance to multiple empires means there are many unique features and stories to uncover. We didn’t have time to see everything we wanted to so we hope to return soon.

August is when Italians traditionally go on holiday. Ferragosto is officially on the 15^th with people using that national holiday as the start or end point of their break. This year the date fell on the weekend so seemed to start the week before and extend into the week after. It’s been a tough year.

Bologna in August

August in Bologna is particularly hot and humid (especially this year when there were weeks in the mid-30s with temperatures barely dropping at night and little rain). “No one stays here in August” we were told when we first arrived last year. Many people have second homes on the coast or in the mountains to where they wholly or partly decamp to escape the weather. Last year we had long standing plans to be away for most of August so this year was our first experience.

We had noticed that weekends are quiet as soon as the schools break up because everyone heads to the beach, but that’s nothing compared to the exodus in August. We were not sure if this year would be the same as so many businesses were closed for quarantine, however it didn’t seem to make any difference. In fact, I feel it might even have been emptier this year as people were desperate to take advantage of the travel opportunity having been stuck in their homes for so long. The empty streets were like those at the height of lockdown and nearly all our favourite food shops and go to spots closed. This gave us an opportunity to investigate new places, go slightly further afield and try out different suppliers, but the pickings were slim.

With Al working for four days a week it was not exactly holiday time but we made the most of the three days a week he has off with a short break in Verona, a day out at an aqua park and other events still running around the city.

Bologna Station Massacre 1980

The month started with a sombre occasion. The 40^th anniversary of the Bologna station bombing which killed 85 people, injured more than 200 hundred and destroyed a large part of the station. It was one of the many acts of domestic terrorism that occurred during the “years of lead”, when Italy was plagued by violence from groups on the far left and far right of politics. The bombing was one of the last acts of this period, which began in the late 60’s, as people were so shocked by this incident it consolidated public opinion and the determination to bring these actions to an end. As you can imagine it was a big deal here with as much socially distanced commemoration as could be achieved. You can read more detail about these years and get further reading suggestions here.

Banner commemorating 40 years since the Bologna Station Bombing

Under the stars Cinema (Sotto le Stelle del Cinema)

The under the stars cinema programme is undoubtedly a highlight of the Bolognese summer. Usually the cinema is arranged with a large screen and seats set outside in the main square (Piazza Maggiore) which are available on a first come, first served basis or you can sit on the cathedral steps, or bring your own camping chair and add to the end of the rows. People bring along picnics or get takeout from nearby restaurants and bars. Bologna is home to the Cinema Ritrovato where they remaster and restore old films you can enjoy some classics. As it is also supported by the Cineteca, you can watch films in their original language with Italian subtitles, a rare treat as films are usually dubbed in Italian. Last year we watched The Doors with remastered soundtrack introduced by Oliver Stone as well as “Silence of the lambs” which was especially atmospheric with the sound bouncing around the piazza buildings.

This year, with Coronavirus, we thought the event was done for, but we shouldn’t have worried, although it had been altered, it was still on. Due to covid restrictions there were only 1000 seats and you needed to book tickets online so the necessary social distancing could be arranged. Sadly, the restrictions included prohibiting eating and you need to wear your mask at all times, so no food was allowed. The piazza was also closed for anyone without a booking so we have had to take some detours to avoid it.

As in previous years, you could book into one of the piazza restaurants and bars that overlook the screen and watch the movie while eating a meal or having a drink as these venues are already socially distanced. As we had a guest visiting, we decided to book a table at Signor Vino for the first night of her stay, from where we could watch “The Great Escape”. Our meal was excellent and the staff magnificent. The obligatory introduction came to an end and we were all glued to the screen as the film started. Sadly, about 20 minutes in we noticed that people in the piazza had started to get up from their seats and head over to where we were in the restaurant. We quickly identified that the heavens had opened. We felt relatively secure at our table as it was under a portico, but the wind picked up and soon we were getting drenched too. The screen began showing a message that the film would not continue. Despite our, and the staffs, valiant efforts to pull the table further under the portico, it was hopeless and we abandoned the table for one inside. So, at least now I know what happens if it rains on a cinema night.

Casa di Custode, Villa Ghigi

Villa Ghigi is a formerly private estate gifted to the people of Bologna via a foundation. The park at Villa Ghigi was a place of salvation for us as the first of the lockdown restrictions were lifted, which you can read about here. The villa itself is an imposing structure and still very beautiful and evocative, but I am sorry to say that it is in a poor state of repair. It is currently in the running for restoration funding due to a great initiative by FAI (Italian Environmental Fund) and you can vote for the Villa here on their site.

Next to the villa is a small building called the Casa di Custode. Usually this is completely closed but in the summer it forms the base of operations for a bar. The counter is outside, with the menu very clearly stating it sells beer and wine only. Trestle tables are set up with a random assortment of stools and chairs. Lights are strung between the casa and the villa. Covid restrictions meant less tables than previously and at busy times these were only available if pre-booked. It’s a beautiful location to stop and admire the greenery as well as being a welcome reward for walking up the steep slopes to get there.

The Acquapark

As the heat continued to build we took refuge at the Acquapark in the hills near Bologna. The air was, thankfully, fresher here and we enjoyed spending our time between the pools. We had originally planned a beach day, but we realised that’s where all the people who were usually in Bologna had gone and so all the beaches would be busy and expensive. The park made a great substitute, we got to paddle and relax, whilst maintaining social distancing and with everything we needed on hand. We thought the day tickets were good value and the food and drink concessions had something for everyone and were plastic free.

End of Summer

As wonderful as the summer was I have to say that when the heavens opened on final weekend of August I couldn’t have been happier. It felt like it was cleaning away the dust, dirt, grit and sweat of the previous weeks. We have had great times and been to beautiful places, we have some new favourites and new experiences. We even managed a return visit to Dozza (you can read about our previous visit here) as well as a few days in Venice and Verona, but the summer is ending and we need to get on. It was also bittersweet because we have had to say goodbye to Alice, who has decided to move on to a new opportunity in a new location. She is one of Al’s colleagues and has been very welcoming to us, making sure we were included in many events and occasions. She has been a big part of our getting to know the city, we will miss her and we wish her the best of luck for the future.

Alice in Borgo Mameli for her leaving drinks

As the summer draws to a close I am enjoying the cooler nights and the feeling that things are starting again. Everything has reopened and feels fresh. At the risk of poking the hubris bear, whose 2020 game has been a strong one so far, I am feeling hopeful for the future in a way I wasn’t before. Let’s see how that goes.

Month: September 2020

A Short Break in Verona