Given everything that we have learned about Italy and how things work here it was probably inevitable that finding somewhere more permanent to live would not come from the shoe leather pounded on the streets as we went from rental agency to rental agency, or from being in the Facebook group for people looking for/offering rentals (which has become an increasingly desperate place and is very one sided) or replying to every new apartment listed for rent on an online portal as soon as the advert goes up. It would come from knowing someone, who knew someone. So it came to pass that I was sitting in a park, relaxing with two English teachers* I know and, as usual, lamenting the apartment problem in Bologna when one of them mentioned she had just looked at a place that might suit us that her friend was going to be renting out. She hadn’t taken it because she felt it was “too far out” being just outside the porta San Mamalo and she prefers to be in the centre, cue an immediate flurry of Whatsapp message exchanges and introductions and an agreement that we would meet up with the homeowners when they returned from their honeymoon.
In a further typical Italian fashion the homeowners, who are a lovely couple, wanted to ensure that both of them met both of us which given that they work more 9 to 5 weekdays and we work evenings and weekends was a little bit tricky. In the end we went there to see the place and meet them on a Sunday about a week after they returned. We felt nervous, as if we were going on a date. With this kind of thing are we wrong to feel there is an element of popularity contest about it?
The apartment was lovely. The entrance hall/lounge provided access to two double bedrooms and bathroom (with bath) or right into the kitchen. It was a big, airy kitchen (and utility space) which opened onto an amazing garden, part decked and with sun sails to keep the direct sun off when required. The apartment was also at ground floor level at the back with enormous windows so you could get a car (or van in our case) right up to the 2nd bedroom window, which would be useful for moving in and bulky shopping items.
From the garden you could see into the hills and the apartment building backed onto a private park. Apparently wild boar and deer had been seen from the windows. Obviously, we loved it. We went through why they were looking to rent it out and how long for as well as why we were in Italy and what our goals were. They loved that we were making such a big change and as they had previously lived abroad they understood the challenges. We were given advice on language courses and local festivals. We were told the price and, unbelievably, it was in our budget, at the top, but still in it. The fly in the ointment? There were 5 other interested people and they had not even advertised on the internet.
News of these other interested parties was a blow but did not come as a surprise to us because we had first-hand experience of how tough it is to get a place in Bologna, nevermind one as lovely as this. We ended the visit with them telling us they would put us down as one of the people interested in the apartment and let us know once they had shown it to everyone. We were a little down cast as we felt sure that other people, who were Italian, or had permanent contracts, or who they knew better or all three, would certainly be interested and would be preferable to us. We tried not to get our hopes up, but this was as close as we had come to getting an apartment.
We exchanged a few messages with the homeowners during the week, as follow ups to some of the other things we had discussed and then received a message to say that they were hoping to make a decision after the weekend. On the Sunday we received a further message to say that two of the viewers had, had to delay their visit and so could we be patient until the following Friday? I wrote back that of course we could, but we hoped they would not like it as much as us and then I hit send. I was immediately filled with remorse and thought that this could come across very badly, but it was done now so there was nothing I could do. When Al called I confessed to him and he said “Good, I think that was a perfect response”, he was calling to tell me that he had the rest of the day off. We decided to head into town and see what was happening. The centre of Bologna in the afternoon and evening is very chilled out and there are always plenty of people around, just soaking up the pleasant atmosphere. We had a little mooch around the shops and had a drink in a bar.
When we were in the bar contemplating what to do for dinner we received another message from the homeowners. They had been offered more money by two students who also wanted to use the kitchenware, bedding etc. We were their favourites, but could we go slightly higher? We discussed this whilst continuing to enjoy our drinks and while my phone buzzed with additional messages from them. As we finished I responded to say we had considered the issue and agreed we could. They said they would cancel the future viewing and start to put together the contract and would let us know what they needed from us and when. They also suggested that we get together for a toast!
On one of Al’s next days off we found ourselves on the decking of the apartment, with the homeowner, enjoying apertivo while he talked through the contract. He was very keen to explain how these things worked in Italy, not just for this transaction, but also for any future transactions we might make. He also wanted to ensure we had time to read and translate the contract so we could ask him any questions or get any advice we might need. He sent us everything by email and we were able to translate and understand it. Two days later we met up again in Al’s break to sign everything.
After 5 moves in 6 months we are finally in an apartment we can call home. Everything has been put away and has a place to live. Eagle eyed readers will recognise the San Mamalo location as the same area we stayed in at our first air B&B when we arrived. The apartment building’s back exit opens onto the same road that the original apartment was on, so we have walked past it a few times now. We are only a 15 minute walk from the centre and there is a good bus service, albeit in the number of buses not their adherence to the timetable, so you can be in the centre in 5 to 10 minutes traffic depending. My work is now only 30 mins walk away although Al’s journey is taking a little longer.
As we have a contract for the apartment we were able to register for residency here, which means we have an official address. A quick recap on how residency works in Italy, we need an address at which we are registered so we can get health cards, insurance, post, contract mobile phones, a whole multitude of seemingly normal things. This means that we will fully enter into the world of Italian bureaucracy but, given that we have been living without a recognised address for six months, this seems like a small price to pay…watch this space to find out how long that lasts.
*As in usually qualified teachers who teach English as a subject to English speaking children at the international school, rather than the likes of me with my internet qualification**, teaching English as a foreign language to adults. I am not sure why I think it is important to stress this distinction, but I do.
** At the time of writing the internet qualification has been completed but the certificate has not yet been received and the online portal is both showing my course as being 76% completed and not displaying my final grade, so am I qualified?